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Routes in The Silver Horn

Chalice, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playing Not Spraying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 966 total · 8/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

P1-4

Beginning at the base of a large clean flake, layback up the wall and follow cracks/ramps/corners rightward into a long beautiful left-facing corner. Up finger cracks through occasionally scrappy rock, then step left out of the main corner, into a smaller and cleaner corner. Atop the big corner, traverse right, below a roof, and into a beautiful splitter crack, flakes, and delicate mantle to top-out. A few shorts bits of 5.10a... mostly easier and well-protected.

From the midway ledge, begin at the toe of center of the upper face. Aim for a roof just above small pine, and below a long right-facing corner. Pull the roof (crux) and jam up the long hand crack to a belay. Move up and rightward to a nice ledge and belay stance. Pitch 7 begins with easy laybacking on junk rock before the quality improves markedly and stemming corner leads to a hard sequence exiting the corner, and a nice ledge. The final pitch follows the deep chimney (protect well once inside) up under the summit before swinging pullups and a mantle deposit you on top.

Location

Beginning at the obvious flake on the left side of the lower wall, this climbs crosses over "The Chalice" at the obvious halfway ledge.

We descended via rappeling the SE side of the peak to the start of the face. We only had one 70m rope, left a fixed nut, and used some questionable webbing. Trees and horns exist, but bringing some bulk webbing is advisable.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 3"

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