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Routes in ABC Boulder

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Remo
Page Views: 1,072 total, 10/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Sep 13, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Starts seated on the right arete. While staying on the main face, pull up and left to a fossilized prune knob, followed by a small sidepull just next to the arete, then direct to the top using a left pinch and foot work. A slightly easier variation uses the right arete and round the corner holds at V2-3.

Location

Hike to the top of the ridge 50ft past Hang loose. You should be standing at the end of a small clearing. With your back to the road and in line with the barrel ridge area turn 90 degrees to the left (East). Staying below the faint ridge on the right walk approx. 100ft into the woods, cross a rocky drainage ditch, and the boulder should be right in front of you. Its about a 5min walk if you know where your going. Right side of the Vadge Boulder.

Protection

Pad

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Dobbe  
Not sure when this happened and not directed at one person. Just a heads up that people should not climb at the Dodge a day after a good rain. This problem was always soft and is going to break anyway but we would hate to break holds on classic problems. Thanks Apr 30, 2012
Dommer
V5
Dommer  
V5
The bomber sidepull for your right hand high up and just in from the arete is no longer there. I was able to bump off the remains to even higher up on the arete and still hit the pinch with my left hand. Still a really good problem. I'd peg it at solid V5 now. Apr 30, 2012
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Awesome job! Were you guys here on the bash weekend? Sep 13, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V3-4
Remo   Madison, WI
  V3-4
Hey Trav, yeah I did this and called it Breakaway, V3-4ish. Using the corner was a tad easier, maybe V2-3, but just a variation. Good work on the post and all the new lines. Sep 13, 2008