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Routes in ABC Boulder

Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) V6 7A
Breakaway V5- 6C
Broken Dreams V6- 7A
Project ( We call it titty twister) V7-8 7B
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Remo
Page Views: 3,439 total, 31/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Sep 13, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Hard sit start on the left side of the boulder. Tough gastons to start, then into hug and heeling moves. End with many different variations...big pocket out left...continued gastons... or by slapping the crack out right. Choose your own adventure.

Location

Hike to the top of the ridge 50ft past Hang loose. You should be standing at the end of a small clearing. Turn 90 degrees to the left (East). Staying below the ridge walk approx. 100ft into the woods, cross a rocky drainage ditch, and the boulder should be right in front of you. Its about a 5min walk if you know where your going. Left side of Vadge Boulder.

Protection

Pad
Brian Runnells
  V5-6
Brian Runnells  
  V5-6
Cool problem/boulder. Didn't use the jug around left mostly because I forgot that it was there. Not sure if it would make it that much easier/harder to use it. Nov 16, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V6
Thanks Dobbe. That is essentially what both Travis and Remo told me too. I think I was dropped on my head as a baby. In grade school, they said, "doesn't follow directions very well". Hope to find it eventually one of these tries. Maybe the third time will be a charm.

Although I had a lot of fun on the Backbone since I headed there after failing to find it. The new-ish stuff up there is very fun: Trail Crew, Midwest Hardcore, Press It Out... Gave a couple tries on Battle of the Bulge too, some of the sharpness has worn off which is good news for me and my tender tips. Good work up there. Sep 25, 2008
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
Chris the easiest way to get there is to get on top of the welcome to the top problems and there is a lite trail going back and left. Stay about even with the left ridge line until you hit a rocky old creek bed it is just on the other side of the creek just head down till you see it. The problem is not that far maybe a 3 minute hike from the welcome to the top. Sep 25, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V6
This boulder does not exist. Clever forgery photos... Sep 24, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
Trav, good work man. I guess the problem is on the harder side of the V5 range, maybe 6. Did you guys use the little two finger flake above the first pocket. You can really crank off that little hold. I just hope it doesn't break, that would make things harder for sure. Sep 20, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Nicely done Remo. We were up there this afternoon and did it as well. Also added a direct that didnt use the large jug on the left face. I thought the direct was v7 and this route V5-6. From your pics it looks like you did a direct line too. You boulderers are so strong. Sep 19, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
Yeah Steve the name stems from the DL problem. We now have an early morning bouldering club- members welcome. Sep 19, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V6-
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V6-
jeez i dont go for 2 weeks and all the projects get cleaned up. nice job bro! Sep 19, 2008
SteveSchultz  
 
Nice Remo. I like the name. Sounds familiar.... Sep 19, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
Done- "Alpine Bouldering Club" V5. Super Fun! Sep 19, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
Almost had it yesterday using some small guy beta. The top was so wet and dirty, just needs a little more cleaning. Sep 17, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Cool, how close were you guys? Was the left arete helpful? Seems like the crux would be in the first couple moves, yea? Sep 13, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
We tried this for a long time. Vince and I figured out some crazy crimping and pinching on the best holds and tried throwing to the large pocket up left, never sent it though. Hard for sure, but super fun. Sep 13, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
I have only done this from a stand start. The obvious line is surely a sit however. When I was there it was literally dripping wet...so the sit was impossible, in dry conditions im sure it would go. has anyone sent this? Saw chalk on it and am curious...remo? dobbe? vince? Sep 13, 2008