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Routes in Bumbling Stock

Crack a Beer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Desiderata S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: D.Mabe, 2007
Page Views: 1,822 total, 16/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details
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Description

Currently this is the only bolted line at the Bumbling Stock. Start in the center of the crag at a right-facing flake. A midway optional belay anchor reduces the drag. Otherwise, bring a few longer draws and a 60m or 70m rope.

Lieback the flake, mantle onto a ramp. Steep slab smears to a cruxy arete move (10+ish). Easier climbing leads you to a right-leaning undercling corner (2nd crux) and over a small roof. Finish on steep headwall, with a last tricky highstep crux at the last bolt. The anchors are set back on a nice ledge.

Lower 105' to ground. A 60m rope barely makes it.

Location

This is almost smack dab in the middle of the crag, left of the Crack a Beer OW.

Protection

13 bolts to the chains.
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
With a few pieces of gear, possibly a better entry is with the start of Crack a Beer to access the headwall. Apr 21, 2014
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.11
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.11
The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think. Apr 19, 2014
Tom Lekan
Denver, CO
Tom Lekan   Denver, CO
A #0.75 through 1 Camalot can be used to protect on the ramp between bolts 2 and 3. Considerably easier terrain, but 15ft runout with groundfall potential here. Apr 5, 2010