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Routes in Bumbling Stock

Crack a Beer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Desiderata S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: D. Mabe, spring 2007
Page Views: 3,451 total, 31/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Low angled 5.7-5.8 climbing with inobvious pro leads to a stance (optional two-bolt belay of the Desiderata). Slightly overhanging wide fists and stacks for 20 feet (#3.5 -#4.5 Camalot). Higher up, it eases off considerably, with some jugs and face holds, and small pro options inside the crack. Hell, you could sling a chockstone for complete trad style. Finish at the anchors of the Desiderata.

Location

If you can't identify this route, then you do not know what a splitter OW looks like. Start right of Desiderata up a lichened crack weakness and slab.

Protection

Light SR up to #4.5 Camalot, some stoppers. The start protects with a medium sized Camalots. #0.75 or #1 Camalot if I remember right, as well as some Aliens and nuts.

Photos

Mike Bannister 1
Dillon, Colorado
 
Mike Bannister 1   Dillon, Colorado
 
Great route. #4s and #5s, you can place a #3.5 higher up as well. I dragged a #6 up there and never placed it. Oct 18, 2015
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.11
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.11
I fully admit I suck at OW, but this felt considerably harder than 5.10. Maybe if you have big paws and can get some decent fists it would help, but otherwise it's some pretty steep stacks or arm bars. Felt like Generator crack kicked back 20 degrees but fortunately the business is only for like 15 feet. Whatever the case, this thing is an awesome bit of crack climbing.

WMC - for setting a TR, I'm not sure, but it looked like you could scramble up the back of the formation and the anchors were on a good ledge. Otherwise aiding up it with a 4 and 5 would be pretty easy. Apr 19, 2014
Darren -- What happened to the excellent photo of you leading this? It was here last night. The substituted overview pic is informative, though. Nov 11, 2013
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Was thinking about heading out next week, but was wondering if I could set a TR fairly easily? I was planning on TR soloing the route. Any recommendations? Mar 23, 2012
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Well I originally tried to lead this and got my ass handed to me, I almost made it to where it opens up for a knee near the top of the roof. I was hangdogging and went for it, almost getting to the easier bit, but my partner couldn't tell I was yelling "SLACK"! instead he thought I was saying take.... NO GOOD. Went back yesterday and got on it again, this time on TR, it's still tough on TR. I placed about 5 directional pieces on the way down, and hangdogged my ass up through the crux. The second time I mostly got it on my own power.

I found the key to be wide, double hand stacks and awkward feet (left on smears, and right tourquing and heel toe camming sort of for all it's worth as deep and high as possible, then sit up/stand on the left foot and move the stack up).

This thing is tough, and a heck of a work out, great practice though. I don't think I'll be leading it anytime soon, it seems the gear getting in the way makes it that much harder, not to mention it's hard to have enough of the right size cams for this one.

Nice work, Darren.... Now that I've blown my onsight attempt, care to share some beta??? Apr 26, 2010
I thought this was a challenging ow. I would recommend 3 4.5 size cams, although if you feel comfortable with that size 2 would work. I have small hands, so fists did not work. If the 4.5 size is a problem for you, then this is a great one to work on that size add the overhang and it is a tough workout. It definitely is easier for someone with bigger paws. I clearly missed the boat on this ow, and I love the ow. Aug 13, 2009
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
  5.10+
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
  5.10+
After a slip getting started, I fired it, but... my strategy was sinking the right arm for very deep palm-up fist jams in the limited constrictions and a relentless gaston off the left edge. Fine on top rope but probably impossible to reconcile with the demands of placing and climbing past gear. Jul 22, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Yeah, I wouldn't give myself the onsight because I peeked at it when I bolted The Desiderata. Jul 21, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Just out of curiosity how does one get a FA that was a FLASH? (oh I think I get it, you rapped the line and scoped it first hu?) I was confused for a minute there. Jul 20, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Can't give all the beta away... ;)
but looks like you're on the right track. The gear beta should be an indication of what techniques you will need. It's really not that sustained. Go do it! I am not much of an o-dubb guy, and I flashed it, if that helps. Besides, I have only been on it once, so rating is approximate until it has seen some more ascents. Sep 10, 2008
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
Thanks Darren, that looks like fun and knowing the gear makes things easier. How sustained is it and how technical? Cupped hand stacks or hand fist stacks or double fist stacks? Knee lock jambs, heel toe cams, stacked feet? Armbars and thrutching/locking off, with the hips/legs. What should be expected as I haven't lead a 5.10 OW really. Although I made it up Cupcake at the Voo, but it seems skinnier maybe. Sep 10, 2008