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Routes in Phobos/Deimos Cliff

Blues Riff T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deimos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easter Island S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phobos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Phobos Start Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: John Bachar, July 1981
Page Views: 4,449 total, 40/month
Shared By: Anson on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

As you walk around the cliff corner from Blues Riff you'll see Goldfinger on your left, a series of discontinuous fingerish cracks going up and right on a slightly overhanging wall. I heard Bachar was dusting holds off with his hands during the passive pro, onsight first ascent.

Location

Keep walking past Blues Riff, and as you walk uphill you will see an obvious right-leaning crack system on the wall on your left. There's a direct variation that's around 12c.

Protection

Small (to 1" or so), wires work great.

Photos

Mei
 
Mei  
 
Really enjoyed a TR ascent of this line. It's sustained either being physical or being tricky (awkward body position).

There is a block (1+ft tall) near the top that's broken off from the crack but still wedged in there. A chalk mark X is written on it. I tapped gently on it while TR'ing, and it sure sounded bouncy and hollow. I didn't dare to touch it again because my belayer was on the ground with our stuff scattered at the base. Everybody we saw on the route before us basically traversed right below the block, and either top out from that crack/ramp on the right ( to 10' right of the anchor) or had to traverse back to the top-out crack once above the loose block, which breaks the natural flow of the climb.

To any party who are planning to climb it and see this message before heading up, I wonder if you could plan for a cleanup of this block? Make sure nothing is at the base and maybe belay the follower from the top so that the follower can try to pry it out and drop it when nobody is on the ground. If you do, thank you! Aug 29, 2017
Christopher Barlow  
  5.12a
Super good, long pitch; probably one of the better single-pitch cracks in the park. The recommended rack seems a little vague/sparse, especially for someone trying to onsight. While I'm sure one could protect this pitch adequately with nothing bigger than a 1" piece, it would probably require quadruples of cams from .5-1" to have comfortably spaced pro. Instead, I'd recommend a double set of cams up to hand-sized (#2 Camalot or equivalent) and possibly triples of the tips/tight fingers range (blue-gray Camalots). There are certainly spots that a big hands piece could go in. Jun 2, 2014
Anson
berkeley, ca
 
Anson   berkeley, ca
 
Nick, yes you can just barely use a 70m. you may have to use the pedestal on the right.
Michael, as you turn the corner past blues riff, the obvious climb will be on the wall on your left. there are climbs to the right, not downhill- i think most people can figure that out.
Also, there is a direct start to this climb that goes at about 12c. Oct 8, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Does anyone know if you can use a 70m to TR/rap this route? I can't remember... Jun 18, 2012
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
that may be the lamest climbing video i've ever seen Jul 27, 2010
chummer
 
chummer  
 
Rely more on stoppers than cams. They're super solid and easier to place. Jul 20, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Goldfinger on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=PbxTKBd…. Jun 7, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
If you don't like giving beta then you shouldn't make route contributions. MP is a community resource so a decent approach description would be a good place to start. Thanks for at least updating that part. However, it's kind of funny that you say the climb is on your left as you approach it because there wouldn't be any climbs on your right, since to your right would be downhill. Jun 4, 2009