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Routes in Phobos/Deimos Cliff

Blues Riff T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deimos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easter Island S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phobos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Phobos Start Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dale Bard, Bob Locke, Claude Fiddler & Allen Bard, 1976
Page Views: 10,965 total · 80/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Tuolumne is not a destination for flawless crack climbs, but there are a few notable exceptions, Blues Riff being one of them. This pitch would be classic no matter where it would be. Originally rated 5.11d, it has since been down-rated to as low as 5.11b, but although the crux is brief, it is probably solid 5.11.

Most climb only through the second pitch and then rap with double ropes.

P1: Begin about 100' right of the obvious crack system of Phobos at a section of friable rock protected by a new bolt. This short pitch was changed significantly in recent rockfall, but is still climbable at 5.10c. Climb up to the first bolt (a small cam helps), then reach left and crank through the roof on large, flexing holds -- be very careful about what you pull on here! Continue up a short, ugly hand crack to a nice ledge below the second pitch. Belay from some fixed slings and possibly a #3 Camalot.

P2: Step up onto the face above and ascend it past a bolt to a stance. Have a few medium wires or finger-size cams ready, and then climb up the finger crack (crux) to an obvious sharp horizontal "rest" jug. Continue up the beautiful thin-hands crack to a final wide section (#3 Camalot) to a bolted anchor. It is possible to rap from here with two 60m ropes, or one can continue up the wide flake to the summit and walk off.

Protection

Triples in hand-size cams, doubles in fingers, and one or two #3 Camalots.

Photos

Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
A challenging and stunning route! Small sections of difficult climbing woven together by excellent and featured flake climbing. A must do! Dec 5, 2015
OK so how long a rope is required to lower off? Nov 5, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11
My favorite climb in Tuolumne. It never gets old. Sep 23, 2013
Second pitch is great. Link 1st and 2nd for a greater pump fest. The 3rd pitch is not worth it, IMHO. There are two loose flakes, which would kill you if they come off. Aug 5, 2013
Jeff Edge  
 
the bolted anchor to the right of blues riff/Phobos topouts drops down about 10 ft to the right of the second pitch anchor of blues riff right at the end of a single 60, it shouldn't be hard to see and it's an easy swing over Jul 12, 2013
TeleRoss
San Diego, CA
  5.11a/b
TeleRoss   San Diego, CA
  5.11a/b
Amazing splitter! Kind of a one move crux, really prob only 11a/b but man, that thin hands, hands and laybacking hero crack above is so good! Jun 28, 2013
Warning: there is a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff about 50' right of the finish of Blues Riff and Phobos. This anchor has NO ANCHORS BELOW within reach of two 60m ropes - do NOT use!

Thanks to Katrina Managan and partners for the warning! Oct 1, 2011
heppnerd, sound like you're describing the first pitch. It does have a weird bouldery problem that goes to an easy crack. And it's shorter than anyone expects! And it wouldn't make anyone's c list by itself ieho (in everyone's humble opinion, trade marked here) Jul 10, 2011
i was very dissapointed with this climb weird boulder problem crux to an easy crack and a lot shorter than i expected.maybe i,m a snob[my wife thinks so] but i have climbed all over and this would not make my c list in other areas imho . Dec 4, 2010
trying hard
Sierra East Side
  5.11c PG13
trying hard   Sierra East Side
  5.11c PG13
First pitch is a little sporty and there are one or two holds that seem scary to grab, but they seemed to be solid. Climb through a mini roof and mantle to a nice hand crack that is bomber.

Belay for Pitch one and leading off for money pitch is a huge ledge and there is fixed gear. I would just add a piece for back up, make sure to inspect the cordalete before belaying or repelling off it though.

The money pitch has a scary loose boulder you could start on the right, or start on the left and grab huge jugs to a huge jug rail and move over into the first little bit of ly backing.
You get a great rest before firing the crux, and at this spot you can place a couple pieces before you go for it. From here you only have about 8 to 10 feet max of climbing to your first big rest then the climbing eases up in grade, but get ready for endurance test, you got it! Aug 23, 2010
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Very good route, one of my favorite climbing in Yosemite. A sure must. Apr 23, 2010
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
the third pitch is a little adventurous and run out, but definitely worth doing once. Aug 24, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11b
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11b
Absolutely unbelievable, heaven-sent splitter of the gods. Extremely aesthetic and every move is incredible. Yet another Bard classic--how did he find all these amazing cracks? Sep 3, 2008
Dennis
 
Dennis  
 
Truly a standout climb. Combine the first 2 pitches into a long enduro pitch. Jul 2, 2008
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.11
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.11
So exposed and such a steep, wide open face. Really incredible climbing. Apr 7, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
5.11 crackclimbing does not get much better than this. After a well-prod thin crux to start the second pitch, it becomes a test of staying power and corestrength to persevere the overhanging crack above on varied but mostly handjams. Jul 11, 2007
bbrock
Al
bbrock   Al
This climb is beyond words. A must do for the grade. Perfect pro on the second pitch. Dec 1, 2006