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Routes in h. Phobos/Deimos Cliff

Blues Riff T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deimos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easter Island S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldfinger T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phobos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Phobos Start Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

This warm, south-facing cliff band is home to a few steep, classic crack climbs. These include Phobos (5.9+), Deimos (5.9+), Blues Riff (5.11b/c) and Goldfinger (5.12a).

Getting There

The cliff sits just east of Tenaya Lake and the huge Moutaineer's/Harlequin Dome complex. It is directly across from Pywiak Dome. Parking can be found directly below the dome at a small pulloff, or in the main Tenaya Lake parking lot.

The approach up to the cliff is a grunt. The trail is well-marked however. Allow 45 minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Location: h. Phobos/Deimos Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Phobos/Deimos Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Deimos
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 131
Phobos
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 73
Blues Riff
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Phobos Start Variation
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Goldfinger
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Deimos
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Phobos
 131
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Blues Riff
 73
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Phobos Start Variation
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Goldfinger
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Phobos/Deimos Cliff »

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Photos

EJoe
Mammoth Lakes, CA
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Cordelette on the top rappel station is very worn (sheath cut through by bolts) so I added a piece of sterling power cord to the mix. I didn't have a knife, so wasn't able to cut down the old cord and re-knot mine. Feel free to cut away the old stuff/retro mine; even better if you can equip the station with mallions. Added some webbing to the bottom rappel station as well, so the entire descent should be in good condition.

Bottom rappel is a slung horn directly below the top rappel at ~63 meters. I made it with less than a meter to spare after rope stretch. Alternative is swinging left to Blues Riff's anchor (assuming nobody is on route). Aug 10, 2015

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