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Routes in Castle Rock Proper
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Access Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Access Route - Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aeronautical Engineer TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chock Stone T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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South Face Center (or Mantel Groove?) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 37.2284, -122.0961 |
| FA: | lizard |
| Page Views: | 2,899 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is the face route that is just to the left of the chimney route. Over the years, this route's features have gotten smoother with erosion.
You can start as for the chimney and move onto the face. You could also start with a much harder start from the left over a bulge. Carefully smear your way up. The top out move felt like the crux.
It may be tougher for small kids. It is also used for guiding.
Referred to as “Standard Route” in the 2021 Bay Area Rock climbing guidebook.
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