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South Face Center (or Mantel Groove?)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Castle Rock Proper
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Access Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Aeronautical Engineer TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Auto-bots V3+ 6A+ |
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Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chock Stone T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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South Face Center (or Mantel Groove?) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,072 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park websiteparks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park websiteparks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This is an old moderate problem which has eroded into a more challenging roof move.
Ascend a slab to the middle of the lower roof. Fight through this problem with a variety of mantle, heel hook, and funky friction. Apparently, a hold broke off in the last decade and made it a tricky problem. It is particularly challenging for short kids.
For a moderate variation (~5.7), you can skirt the first roof on the left, then ascend easier terrain above to the anchor.
Ascend a slab to the middle of the lower roof. Fight through this problem with a variety of mantle, heel hook, and funky friction. Apparently, a hold broke off in the last decade and made it a tricky problem. It is particularly challenging for short kids.
For a moderate variation (~5.7), you can skirt the first roof on the left, then ascend easier terrain above to the anchor.
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