Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: rodent
Page Views: 3,360 total · 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

On the left side of the south face of Castle Rock is probably the easiest way to the top. Once this may have been considered 5.0, but erosion has left this a bit trickier.

You can start up a crack on the left side with big stems or go around left and pass a bulge. Pass another minor bulge with an awkward crack. Thread a natural slot, and move left. One small step and you're on top.

You can downclimb this or rappel off to the north.

It can get busy with clients or downclimbers.

You might consider this as you search for a first outdoor climb for your young, budding rock climbing nephrew, but it's a bit of a challenge for those younger than 8. Maybe the Swiss Cheese Face on Goat Rock?

Location

This is on the left side of the south face of Castle Rock.

Protection

A few cams to #1 Camalot, a bolt, a natural thread.

Photos

Drew R  
Looking at the picture which shows the sharp Left turn after the first crack.... if you continue straight up the crack it makes for a fun variation... Toproped with a directional from the bolt on the top (can't see it unless you follow the route in the picture). With the directional you'll swing a little down low, but it's easier climbing... up high maybe a 5.8/9ish? move to "summit". If you want to lead, you can place gear down low to protect the easier climbing but not sure about the crux. Cheers! Jan 1, 2015
Matt Wilber
San Mateo, CA
Matt Wilber   San Mateo, CA
There's an okay bolt at the top of this climb, before you get to the pole at the top. I was able to use this bolt and a girth-hitched sling around an arch to the right to set up a belay right above the crack. Was good for beginning climbers! Sep 17, 2018