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Routes in Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff

Brain Tissue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Driller Instinct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elephant in the Womb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Funky Yet Spunky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Get Your Dicken's Cider S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pull My Finger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoned Wheat Thin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Womb with a View T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Woodywhacker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Barry Oswick, Marshall Minobe, and Alan Hirahara.
Page Views: 3,016 total · 26/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 24, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is described in the guidebook as perhaps the best route at Clark Canyon. It is a beautiful, long pitch of steep climbing on great rock.

Climb the bolted, right-facing dihedral before heading out right on to the face after the fifth (?) bolt. Climb the face to a small roof, passing it on the right, to a long, ever-steepening arete to the anchor.

Be careful lowering/rappelling off. A 70-meter rope will lower you to the first bolt of the route, from where you can downclimb to the ground. Those with less than a 70-meter rope, can use two ropes to get down or two lowers via a two-bolt anchor in the dihedral above the start.

Location

Starts in the bolted, right-facing dihedral around the arete from Brain Tissue and Stoned Wheat Thin.

Protection

17 bolts and anchor.

Photos

Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Although not the hardest, it's the best route I've done at Clark. You get a little of everything on this gem and the route is quality the whole way. 70M ROPE WILL NOT GET YOUR DOWN. My 80m had little to spare after lowering. Tie 2 ropes together and use 2 belay devices would do the trick fine. Jun 14, 2017
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
A single 70m rope will not get you safely off this route. It requires some shenanigans clipping in at the first bolt and down climbing. An 80m rope would be better for top-roping. Jul 29, 2013
Vit
 
Vit  
 
Fun route! I think the 'two bolt anchor in the dihedral' refers to the anchor on the left side of the small overhanging roof. As described here, the route goes to the right side of the roof. Jul 16, 2013
Kris S
Ocean Beach, SF
 
Kris S   Ocean Beach, SF
 
AMAZING! Best route of my visit!
Alternative descent is to belay up your second, top out the climb, walk back into the chimney, boulder out, and scramble/hike down (the portion of the 'walkoff' that navigates the summit is nearly technical and a bit heady). I didn't see any two bolt anchor in the dihedral (But maybe I didn't look close enough). Jun 7, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A must do route at Clarks, it was the highest quality of my trip there. A wide skill set is needed as the climbing demands jams to overhung sport climbing.

There is a bit of loose stuff down low in the dihedral which is a bit surprising since three climbs start here. I don't think a little grainy stuff detracts from the overall route though.

I'm glad I came back just to do this one in the morning before I left! May 13, 2012