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Areas in Clark Canyon

Area 13 4 / 34 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38
Main Island 5 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Parking Lot Rock 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Potato Patch 0 / 18 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Wave, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 7,200 ft
GPS: 37.785, -118.915 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Errett Allen on Mar 3, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Short steep bolted sport climbs in Bishops Tuff (volcanic rock with multitudes of holes and pockets). Climbs are 40 to 200 feet and face all directions so its easy to find sun or shade and shelter from the wind.

Getting There

About 7 miles north of the Mammoth Lakes turnoff on Rt. 395 you pass a signed rest area on the left(west). Shortly after that turn right on the Owens River Road. Drive appox. 2 miles and turn left at Big Springs Campground (Road 2S04). At just over 2 miles turn right at a fork (Road 2S06). Drive a mile to a cattle gate (please close the gates behind you), another half mile and turn right at a "T", then left through another cattle gate shortly after that. Drive another 1.7 miles to a four-way intersection, turn right and follow that to where it ends at a parking circle. The main crags are 1/4 mile up a faint trail that leads NE from the circle.

97 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Clark Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Mammoth, Be…
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Candy
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bodhisattva
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Demasiado
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Will's Arete
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bread Line
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Digit Delight
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
I Yam
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cholito
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pull My Finger
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ruffles
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borrowing From Tradition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Driller Instinct
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Spud
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maltese Falcon
Sport
Ugly, Fat, Mean, Come to Ma… Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rock Candy Area 13 > Area 13 - Center 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bodhisattva Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Demasiado Area 13 > Area 13 - Right Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Wild Will's Arete Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bread Line Area 13 > Area 13 - Center 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Digit Delight Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
I Yam Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Cholito Area 13 > Area 13 - Center 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pull My Finger Main Island > Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Ruffles Potato Patch > Potato 3 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Borrowing From Tradition Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Driller Instinct Main Island > Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
King Spud Potato Patch > Potato 2 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Maltese Falcon Main Island > Maltese Falcon Cliff 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Clark Canyon »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Road Update: My prius c made it with no issues. Definitely have to drive slow but its doable Jul 5, 2017
The bad part of the road in is now very good and easy to drive. That being said with the forest fire and the run-off this winter has wrecked the road all over. Yes the road in the bad spot is way better. The road overall is still bad. That being said the rock is good, road is ok, the trees providing shade at area 13 are DEAD. Dont get confused, if the dirt here dries out and its windy you will end up in a dust bowl. I Llove clark butt ill be super concious when I go down here now. May 13, 2017
atomup  
We were stuck here in the fire, & in the initial chaos some gear was left near area 13 right side closer to the trail. Mostly black/ yellow black diamond draws, & djinn petzl draws. Other groups left much more I believe. Hoping someone kind (maybe local)will be willing to collect stuff till I can get back up next weekend. I'm sure the people that left full packs will be appreciative too. Beers on me or whatever you fancy. Also a draw 1/3 the way up In Yo Face. Sep 19, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
I would like to stress that a 4x4 and/or high clearance vehicle is recommended. I almost got stuck here on Sunday in my front wheel drive sedan. There is only one real nasty section, and it's somewhere in the middle. It's high clearance combined with a good hill. Going down was mostly ok. Going up was a few tires spinning and some creative thinking. Also, ditto on the paint scratches for the last section. Sep 2, 2014
"... drive another 1.7 miles to a four-way intersection, turn right and follow that to where it ends at a parking circle."

Don't take your new Bentley on the last stretch of the fire road. Park and walk the last stretch.
The road is really narrow and WILL scratch your car. Jul 28, 2014
There is a small formation between Area 13 and The Main Island. The formation is slightly down-hill from The Alcove and the first climbs reached in Area 13. The formation is called The Wave and has four sport routes apparently bolted in the 90's by some Japanese tourists. None of the routes have names. The Mammoth climbing guide book claims they are the following grades (from left to right) 5.11d, 5.10d, 5.8, and 5.8. I climbed all of these with a few others this past week and would argue the following grades from left to right 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.9, 5.8. The left most climb is a short 4 bolt route that goes mostly straight up with some beta-intensive moves at the slight roof, above a somewhat loose left facing flake. The 10d is immediately left of the arete and has only 3 bolts. The 2nd bolt seems to be a bit bent, but the holds for the 3rd bolt and pulling over the lip are all great. The third line starts on the arete and gradually moves right onto the face for the remainder of the climb. The last climb to the far right is a fun face climb with a nice bit of an arete at the very top. All are worth doing. Cheers. Sep 3, 2013
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
August-no bugs in the evening.

The road in is REALLY BAD! I wouldn't try unless you have a high clearance vehicle, or are willing to walk a mile or so. I have a tacoma 4x4 and thought that I may hit bottom. Aug 26, 2013
Paisley Close
Mojave, CA
Paisley Close   Mojave, CA
Bugs are still bad! Climbed at the Potato Patch on 6/30/12 for only a few hours in the morning. Temps were perfect but I got eaten alive. The mosquitos could get through thin long sleeves, but not the no-see-ums. The no-see-ums got me before I put the long sleeves on and 3 days later I was covered in bumps that itched like crazy. Otherwise we had a great time! And there is no tree blocking the road... Jul 7, 2012
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
The bugs were absolutely horrible on 6/16/12, mostly horseflies and 'no-see-ums', or biting gnats. DEET didn't do any good. If you're dying to climb here go early (88 degrees in the afternoon) and wear long pants and shirts. Hopefully this is a short lived thing, cause 3 days later I look like I have chicken pox and still itch like a mo-fo despite a thick layer of benadryl cream.

Hope this helps people decide which crag to hit up. I can't wait till it cools off a bit so I can get back on some of the fine lines here.

Also there is no longer a downed tree on 2S04! Jun 18, 2012
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
High(er) ground clearance vehicle recommended. You can make it in a car, but you will scrape your paint along the bushes to avoid bottoming out along the last section of road because of a high center hump. A couple other rocks had to be negotiated carefully too. Nov 17, 2010

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