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Routes in Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff

Brain Tissue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Driller Instinct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elephant in the Womb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Funky Yet Spunky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Get Your Dicken's Cider S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pull My Finger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoned Wheat Thin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Womb with a View T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Woodywhacker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Errett Allen, 1990
Page Views: 93 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 24, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a flared offwidth, protected by two bolts, to the face above. The climbing on the arete above is a little sporty, particularly when climbing the twenty feet above the last bolt to the anchors.

Location

Just right of the namesake crack, Stoned Wheat Thin. Starts by climbing a flared offwidth, protected by two bolts.

Protection

8 bolts and anchor.

Photos

Marek Hajek
Reno, NV
  5.10b X
Marek Hajek   Reno, NV
  5.10b X
I consider this route safety = X. The last 30'+ are unprotected. The climbing up there is around 5.9. If you blow it before the anchor you will probably not walk away as you will most likely hit the low angle rock down low. There is simply no nice way to describe the bolting. What a pathetic bolting job! Sep 14, 2017
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The runout on this climb is dumb and contrived. It's basically a sport climb, except someone forgot to place the last two bolts. IMO, it doesn't make sense to have bolts 10 ft apart on 5.7 terrain and then bolts 25 ft apart on 5.8 terrain.

You could have the same number of bolts, just spaced more logically, and this route would not be runout at all. Sep 16, 2011
BAd
  5.10b R
BAd  
  5.10b R
It's been a while since I've done this route, but my recollection is that the run out, while spicy, is on easier climbing. The crux is lower down and well protected. Jan 16, 2011