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Routes in Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff

Brain Tissue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Driller Instinct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elephant in the Womb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Funky Yet Spunky S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Get Your Dicken's Cider S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pull My Finger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stoned Wheat Thin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Womb with a View T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Woodywhacker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Hirahara, Barry Oswick
Page Views: 4,994 total, 41/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Nov 24, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux is pulling the 3 intimidating bulges 160 feet off the ground. The route is well protected though, and offers great climbing. You can do the route in 3 separate pitches if you are worried about rope drag, but doing it one long rope stretcher isn't a problem (make sure you have 60m or longer 50m will be to short)

Location

While facing the Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff, the route goes up the wide crack on the far left, then moves out onto the left arete, and after about 20-30 feet moves onto the face. Pull the 3 bulges near the top. The top is very flat and big and offers a perfect stance to belay your partner to the top while enjoying the stunning views of the Sierra's. Walk off is to the left, you can go right but it exposes you to a nearly 200 foot fall if you slip.

Protection

18 bolts, chains at the 3 separate anchors
Nata
San Francisco
 
Nata   San Francisco
 
There are no chains at the first anchor...but there are quick links on the bolts as of Monday! (We started too late/I was too slow and had to rap down) Jul 7, 2017
J. Hickok
  5.10a
J. Hickok  
  5.10a
The description of this is a little messy... with the over-estimated number of bolts and misinformation about chain anchors, of course, but also saying the route starts at a wide crack rather than an arete could mislead some folks. May 3, 2015
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
This is one of the best at Clark. As one of the posters mentioned, it works great to belay at the first ledge then go to the top from there. I found that each section had interesting and thought-provoking sections. Simply fantastic climbing on superb stone. Go. Do. It.

BAd Jun 7, 2014
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.10a
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.10a
Awesome climb. Somewhat awkward start to the slab. Just climbed it on Sept. 2nd and finished uptop just in time for a killer sunset. Overall, id say its more of a technical/balance 10a than a pumpy 10a. The bulges are indeed thought provoking(upper section), but all the moves are there. A must do climb at clarks! Sep 6, 2013
Patrick R. M.
Mesa, AZ
 
Patrick R. M.   Mesa, AZ
 
Tried to approach in my sedan, had to hike the last two miles due to rough patch in road (not enough clearance). Approach is overgrown, but look for a small trail on the far side of the parking lot (11:30 from the drive-up). A winding half mile from there behind a hill and past a prominent boulder (turn left and go under it) brings you to the wall. 1st anchors on a sweet belay ledge, second anchors hanging, 3rd pitch is rad. Jul 18, 2013
Absolutely incredible climb when done in one long 55m pitch. Belaying at every anchor would detract some value from this climb. The climbing never gets too hard, and there are plenty of ledges to rest on so the pump is never too much of a factor. The bolt count is 17 if you include clipping a draw to each of the intermediate anchors.

One note, while both of the "cruxes" are well protected, the bolt spacing does get a bit further apart higher on the route. Those just breaking into the grade or not comfortable 10-12 ft out from a bolt in 5.9/5.10a territory may want to think twice before getting on this. All difficult moves on the route are right next to bolts though. Apr 6, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
A great and well protected route. I belayed at the first set of anchors on a good ledge, then finished the climb from there. This may be the better option if you're worried about rope drag like I was. Felt stiffer than the 10a's over at Area 13 or maybe it was just the sustained nature of the climb. Either way you won't be disappointed. Jun 27, 2011
Joe Dondero
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.10a
Joe Dondero   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.10a
Yeah I am pretty sure this is 17 draws, I took two extra but don't remember using them. A note the walk off can be icy and dangerous even at this time of year. Also my partner didn't want to follow so I rappelled the route to clean it and forgot that there aren't chains at the first belay station so I ended up leaving a carabiner there for the rappel. Also it was incredibly hard to pull the rope to do the second rappel so I would advise people not try and do that. But overall an amazing route! May 17, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Well, I agree with Michael, I counted 17 or 18 draws, not 26. Great climb, very fun moves on steep featured rock. The crux seemed like the moves above the 1st bolt on the 2nd pitch (if done in 3 shorter pitches), but the bulges at 3/4 height were indeed thought provoking. Mar 20, 2010
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Unless I totally missed something, this route requires 18 draws when done as one pitch. Great route and super fun. It's not very often you get to do a 55 meter pitch of moderate sport climbing. Jul 24, 2008