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Routes in d. Tango Wall

Airy Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Crummy Rotten Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gorilla T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gorilla Slabs (R.I.P. 1978-2005) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hummingbird T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tango T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tango Super Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Cohen and Stu Bartram (1964)
Page Views: 1,684 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to a small shelf below the huge overhang and some fixed pitons (shifting rock, potential rockfall hazard).
Traverse left along the shelf until you can pull into the left-facing corner above (crux, harder if short). Continue up and right to a belay ledge.

P2 - Climb straight up the steep left-facing corner to the ceiling. Clip the bolt, then surmount the ceiling on the right and up to the top.

Location

At a large, left-facing corner beneath a large overhang.

Protection

Standard rack. Note that shifting rock on the overhang poses potential danger for this route.

Photos

Paul Shultz
Hudson, Ma
 
Paul Shultz   Hudson, Ma
 
Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off. Feb 28, 2009