Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Cohen and Stu Bartram (1964)
Page Views: 1,833 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008
Admins: Justin ., Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb the left-facing corner to a small shelf below the huge overhang and some fixed pitons (shifting rock, potential rockfall hazard).
Traverse left along the shelf until you can pull into the left-facing corner above (crux, harder if short). Continue up and right to a belay ledge.

P2 - Climb straight up the steep left-facing corner to the ceiling. Clip the bolt, then surmount the ceiling on the right and up to the top.

Location

At a large, left-facing corner beneath a large overhang.

Protection

Standard rack. Note that shifting rock on the overhang poses potential danger for this route.

Photos

Paul Shultz
Hudson, Ma
 
Paul Shultz   Hudson, Ma
 
Pitch one is alright. According to Falcon NJ guidebook, PG rated. PG13 is much more accurate. First pitch uses small cams and nuts. The last 3 pieces I used to the belay ledge were fixed pins. Lack of friction is a pain on this climb in several spots. definitely harder if short, or short legged. Belay ledge used a fixed pin, 2 aliens and a #4 stopper. 2nd pitch is dirty and with a marginal belay anchor, didn't feel like pushing my luck and opted to bail off. Feb 28, 2009