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Routes in d. Tango Wall

Airy Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Crummy Rotten Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gorilla T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Gorilla Slabs (R.I.P. 1978-2005) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hummingbird T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tango T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tango Super Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lou Lutz and Mike Cohen (1963)
Page Views: 1,041 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on May 16, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

P1 - Climb the crack approximately 20 feet to a small ledge and a band of crappy rock. Climb past the shaley rock up a face to a bolt, then work up past more poor-quality shaley rock until you can move right to a nicve belay ledge (same as Tango).

P2 - Move a bit left, then up several "steps" to a large ceiling (easier than it looks). Climb through the notch in the ceiling to the top. Large cam helpful at the ceiling.

Location

At a short crack about 6 feet right of the left-facing corner that separates the Neolithic Wall from the Tango Wall

Protection

Standard rack + 1 large cam + 1 bolt.

Photos

Brian BH
Boston
  5.6 PG13
Brian BH   Boston
  5.6 PG13
Did this climb in one pitch, don't really see a need to make it 2, a 60m will let you rap all the way to the ground. Nice climb, the pro and rock quality right before and shortly after the bolt isn't the best. Pulling the roof gives you some really nice exposure, a #3 cam on a 60cm sling will give you a bomber placement before you pull to crack in the roof. Rap station with 2 bolts directly to the ledge on the right about 10 ft. Mar 1, 2017