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Routes in World Domination

Berserk Osama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Came as a Rat S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Captain Insano S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mike's Got a Dirty Diaper S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moltar! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Napoleon's Highchair S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pocket Seeking Drone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sofa King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weight Of The World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
World Leader Pretend S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dan Miller, Mike Snyder
Page Views: 1,866 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on May 9, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

Easy moves up the dihedral to the fifth clip to a cruxy move very similar to the Dirty Mouth crux. Follow the left slanting crack for nine clips of amazing jug hauling on steep terrain. Heads up! for the last bolt - its crimpy, and after 95 feet you'll be pumped. An enduro burn for sure with nothing harder than 5.11.

Location

Right of World Leader Pretend, begin in the crack/dihedral and follow the crack system up and left.

Protection

14 clips, sport anchor

Photos

seanmo63
  5.11+
seanmo63  
  5.11+
One of ten sleeps best. A full afternoon of self loathing after failing to milk the final jug rest and launching fully pumped into the last crimp crux, blowing the anchor clip. Sep 29, 2017
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.11d
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.11d
I was robbed, robbed!!! Spit off on my flash attempt by the sharp little crimps up top. Looks like the anchor may have been a bolt lower previously? thought I saw a bolt hole filled next to the last bolt. Full value, one of the best pitches of the trip thus far. Jun 25, 2015
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11d
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.11d
The holds on this are definitely not all jugs. Probably not even half of them are jugs! Great climb though. Sep 3, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11d
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.11d
Outstanding, fantastic! One of my favorites in the Canyon. Definitely not 12a though (maybe in the Red). Jun 4, 2012
hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
Broken hold up top ? Sep 16, 2010
EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
The end is a bit contrived in my opinion. Its 100 feet of jugs to one crimp from which you clip the chains. A good route, but there are not 8 clips of overhanging jugs as Huey writes. Apr 12, 2010