Type: Sport
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 1,144 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on May 3, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is the route immediately to the right of Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth. It climbs the obvious black streak. This is an awsome route!

Protection

11 bolts to bolted ancor

Photos

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Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
 
Brady Robinson   Boulder, CO
 
Best route I did in the area. Sep 8, 2009
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Not a typical Ten Sleep climb. Less than vertical 10+ climbing with healthy bolt spacing to the first break gets your attention at the start. An unnecessary runout to the chains at the top (although it could be also be argued adding a bolt is also unnecessary as the last five feet to the chains are 5.10. Getting your feet under you after the final boulder problem checks in at mid 5.11 and the last bolt will be 4-5 feet under your feet.) Clean fall looking at a 30+ footer if you blow it at the chains.

A/B is probably spot on.

A if you are a boulderer

B if easy enduro pocket pulling is your thing. The steep sections on this are cruxy. Aug 8, 2017
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
  5.12b
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
  5.12b
I didn't find this run out at all, but I did stick clip bolt 2 until I dialed in the slab moves. The moves going to the chains are safe and there is no way you're going for a 30 foot ride if you blow it. Maybe half that.

This route has really good rests for the grade, but that just shows how hard the upper crux is. Its got slab, flowy pockets and dynamic moves. The variety makes it so good. Jul 31, 2018