Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Snyder, 2002
Page Views: 745 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on May 9, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Begin in the dihedral same as Came as a Rat, but go left at the fourth clip. Follow little edges and two finger pockets up into the sky. Just when you think it can't go any longer, there is a mantel top out waiting for your pumped forearms. Sustained and brilliant! Was graded .11d, but it seems the pump factor pushes it to .12a.

Location

On the right side of the WD wall. This climb shares its start with Came as a Rat but goes left after four bolts.

Protection

12 clips, sport anchor

Photos

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Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.12a
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.12a
Climbed this for a 10 year anniversary ascent recently.
The leftward transition from the starting dihedral was a bit dirty but solid.
The pockets and crimps going on forever make the Shinto routes seems like boulder problems.
Solid climbing with 12 well spaced bolts.
It was unfortunate to find zero chalk on this enduro beast. Long but readable, pumpy but manageable. The mantle at the end was humbling. Very psyched to amnesia flash this old girl. Sep 15, 2012
NickG
Syracuse/Keene, NY
  5.12a
NickG   Syracuse/Keene, NY
  5.12a
Its a shame there isnt more chalk on this. The upper headwall is beautiful and worth doing the bottom corner to get to. Get on it!!! Aug 20, 2013
Was really thinking of climbing this, but not enough chalk on it. Was thinking of putting up some colored tape to mark the holds. Jul 6, 2017
What? More chalk? You guys belong in the gym! Jun 26, 2018
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
It's amazing that this doesn't have a line of people queued up every day. Great rock, great holds, sustained movement...awesome. Not sure about a mantel at the top though? Great crimps abound. Aug 2, 2018
Cole Paiement
  5.12a
Cole Paiement  
  5.12a
Climbed this yesterday. Great movement and a very fun climb that deserves classic status or at least more traffic. The bolts are a bit spacy for Ten Sleep but it's still safe. Someone else get on this thing! Aug 23, 2018