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Routes in World Domination

Berserk Osama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Came as a Rat S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Captain Insano S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mike's Got a Dirty Diaper S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Moltar! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Napoleon's Highchair S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pocket Seeking Drone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sofa King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weight Of The World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
World Leader Pretend S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Snyder, 2002
Page Views: 571 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on May 9, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Begin in the dihedral same as Came as a Rat, but go left at the fourth clip. Follow little edges and two finger pockets up into the sky. Just when you think it can't go any longer, there is a mantel top out waiting for your pumped forearms. Sustained and brilliant! Was graded .11d, but it seems the pump factor pushes it to .12a.

Location

On the right side of the WD wall. This climb shares its start with Came as a Rat but goes left after four bolts.

Protection

12 clips, sport anchor

Photos

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Was really thinking of climbing this, but not enough chalk on it. Was thinking of putting up some colored tape to mark the holds. Jul 6, 2017
NickG
Syracuse/Keene, NY
  5.12a
NickG   Syracuse/Keene, NY
  5.12a
Its a shame there isnt more chalk on this. The upper headwall is beautiful and worth doing the bottom corner to get to. Get on it!!! Aug 20, 2013
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
 
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
 
Climbed this for a 10 year anniversary ascent recently.
The leftward transition from the starting dihedral was a bit dirty but solid.
The pockets and crimps going on forever make the Shinto routes seems like boulder problems.
Solid climbing with 12 well spaced bolts.
It was unfortunate to find zero chalk on this enduro beast. Long but readable, pumpy but manageable. The mantle at the end was humbling. Very psyched to amnesia flash this old girl. Sep 15, 2012