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Routes in The Island

Aah... Me Wrikey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Arrowhead S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Balls? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Ben S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bitch With A Broomstick S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Wall S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bobby and The Bosch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brighton Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bruce's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Certain Damage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Community Service S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Digital Jedi S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Easy Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Egyptian S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Feelin' All Right S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hole A Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horn of Plenty, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illegal Dihedral S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In With The New S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jesus Loves You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Freedom S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Light Tension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mild Thing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pea Green Limosine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Redhead S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rescue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rub the Nub S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Search S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silent Spaz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spider Pig S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spring Cleaning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squintch S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Value Jet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Billings S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Thing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Bobby Model, Bryant Hall
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on May 7, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Begin climbing just left of the old stone water fountain. Clip shiny bolts leading to the crack and mantle at the end.

This line was originally established by Bobby Model in the early nineties. I asked Bobby years ago if we could split it into two routes since the bolts didn't really protect the finish very well and people generally escaped to the right after falling repeatedly trying to do the mantle on the left. The runout on the right exit was scary but easy and the falls mantling the looseness on the left produced crazy swinging whippers. Bobby grumbled a bit at the suggestion, but agreed that two separate routes might be a better idea. Sadly Bobby left us before we could make that happen.

Bryant Hall and I returned recently to make the split and update the aging hardware. We found that the original line crossed some dangerously hollow blocks and the rock on either side was solid, thus making more sense to abandon the the original beginning. There are now two great lines on either side leading up into each of the finishes as their own routes. In addition we installed two separate anchors lower down so as to eliminate the rope drag over the ledge and through the dirt at the top.

Location

On the Tunnel Wall between Rub the Nub and Mild Thing.

Protection

6 clips, chain anchor

Photos

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