Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Gaar Lausman, Janette Tank 2008
Page Views: 874 total · 7/month
Shared By: Gaar on May 4, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


Climb the clean cut Left Facing Dihedral.

Start by climbing and easy, protected slab crack, make an exciting 8ft traverse right to the corner. Stem, and Float your way up the corner. One bolt anchor under roof, Back up with a nut for TR'ing


Keep following the trail along the base for another 5 min from "One for the Road" to climbers left.


Two-Grey TCU, Three-Purple TCU, Two-Blu TCU, sigle-.75-4 camolot...That will SOW it up


Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
EDIT: Went out today 5/8/09 and took it over the roof. From the bolt continue unprotected 5.10 stemming to a good jug below the roof, and a good sidepull at the lip of the roof. place a blue alien at the lip, and a orange TCU just over make a hard pull to a finger lock and crank over. 20 more feet of off angle finger crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor. Can TR with single 60m May 4, 2008
Daniel Forgeng
Salt lake City
Daniel Forgeng   Salt lake City
Did the route as one pitch. Kinda Scary! I definitely didn’t do the right start and almost cratered before getting my first piece... The jug at the roof is super hollow sounding... Didn't/couldn't get gear before pulling the roof(I ran out of small pieces). I Only managed to get a BD .75 about 10 feet above the roof. Very glad I didn’t fall!

NOTE: A BD #4 or 5 is nice for the short offwidth section Oct 5, 2009
I did the FA of this years ago to the two bolt anchor.
I also freed about 90% of the route to the roof and they got into aiders.
Dave J Mar 11, 2016