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Routes in The Wasp

Glacial Obsession S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glacial Recession S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Hornet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Magic Helmet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radidudical S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Straight Flush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super Knat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tillite Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wasp, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Jacket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, March 2008
Page Views: 574 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 28, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Fun little crack, if a bit loose in places. The crux is probably turning the roof near the top. But there are good holds everywhere, so it's not too bad. After turning the roof, clip the last bolt on Magic Helmet (the bolted 5.10 to the right) and finish on Magic Helmet's anchors.

Location

The crack in the corner to the left of Magic Helmet.

Protection

A few small to medium sized pieces. One bolt. Uses the chains on Magic Helmet.

Photos

This route is great to practice early Trad climbing skills. The gear is easy enough to place and the moves are easy enough as well. The POSITIVE thing to this route is that it is a short distance so the mental commitment to the route is low, the bolt is only about 20ish feet of the ground and has the most easy clipping position in the world, also there is a fun little roof you kinda of just poke your head through, get your ground hog on and climb this. Apr 8, 2015
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I used purple, green, and red BD Camalots to protect the route to the bolt. Maybe a yellow one, too. This climb is nothing spectacular but it's pretty fun. You don't really need to jam--there are enough face holds. Mar 28, 2008