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Routes in The Wasp

Glacial Obsession S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glacial Recession S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Hornet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Magic Helmet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radidudical S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Straight Flush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super Knat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tillite Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wasp, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Jacket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee, April 2008
Page Views: 867 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 14, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Follow two bolts up to the roof. Find the jugs at the lip and clip the bolt above the lip. The next move is the crux: a deadpoint lunge to a big jug. Once you pull the move, get your feet up and find a key horizontal flake/knob for your left hand to steady yourself, clip the bolt, and keep climbing on moderate terrain past one more bolt to the top.


Climbs the right side of the roof on The Throne. Directly to the right of Magic Helmet.


5 bolts to chain anchors.


Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I think that this climb is better than Magic Helmet. Big moves on big holds makes for big fun. May be 5.10b if you're taller. Apr 14, 2008
One big reach from good jugs to another big hold! Bring your long set of arms for this one...thought it was harder than Magic Helmet. Apr 21, 2008
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
I'd probably give this 3 stars if it was longer. Very fun route. I am a bit taller and I was glad the holds weren't sharp like one hold on the adjacent route. Nice area for cranking off a bunch of quick routes. One question though...why were the anchors so far away from the edge of the face your climbing? It seems like there is a lot of unnecessary drag. Jun 6, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
I didn't think the drag was too bad when lowering... But if enough people think it would be better, we can add a new set of anchors. Jun 7, 2008
darrell hodges
darrell hodges  
10B for people with long arms like me.

Probably 10C for those with nubbier appendages. Jul 29, 2008
Canyon Copa  
Really fun roof problem. The first time I climbed it I had a couple holds break on me, but this last time it felt good and solid. May 30, 2012

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