Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee, April 2008
Page Views: 893 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 14, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Follow two bolts up to the roof. Find the jugs at the lip and clip the bolt above the lip. The next move is the crux: a deadpoint lunge to a big jug. Once you pull the move, get your feet up and find a key horizontal flake/knob for your left hand to steady yourself, clip the bolt, and keep climbing on moderate terrain past one more bolt to the top.

Location

Climbs the right side of the roof on The Throne. Directly to the right of Magic Helmet.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.10c
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.10c
I think that this climb is better than Magic Helmet. Big moves on big holds makes for big fun. May be 5.10b if you're taller. Apr 14, 2008
One big reach from good jugs to another big hold! Bring your long set of arms for this one...thought it was harder than Magic Helmet. Apr 21, 2008
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10b/c
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10b/c
I'd probably give this 3 stars if it was longer. Very fun route. I am a bit taller and I was glad the holds weren't sharp like one hold on the adjacent route. Nice area for cranking off a bunch of quick routes. One question though...why were the anchors so far away from the edge of the face your climbing? It seems like there is a lot of unnecessary drag. Jun 6, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.10c
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.10c
I didn't think the drag was too bad when lowering... But if enough people think it would be better, we can add a new set of anchors. Jun 7, 2008
darrell hodges
  5.10b/c
darrell hodges  
  5.10b/c
10B for people with long arms like me.

Probably 10C for those with nubbier appendages. Jul 29, 2008
Canyon Copa  
 
Really fun roof problem. The first time I climbed it I had a couple holds break on me, but this last time it felt good and solid. May 30, 2012
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.10a/b
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.10a/b
I'm 6'4" and this didn't feel much harder than Magic Helmet. My shorter partner, on the other hand, found this to be quite a bit more difficult. If only the climbing after pulling the roof wasn't simply a hike to the chains... Oct 31, 2018