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Routes in The Wasp

Glacial Obsession S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glacial Recession S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Hornet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Magic Helmet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Radidudical S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Straight Flush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Super Knat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tillite Delight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wasp, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Jacket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Description

Interesting spire of quartzite on the north side of the mouth of Rock Canyon. It's in the same gully you use to get to Trilogy Buttress. Not very busy, so the rock's not polished. The slope along the base of the wall is about a 45 degree angle, so be careful not to knock too much rock down on your friends as you scramble up.

Also, FYI, if you continue up the slope past The Wasp, and stay to the right, there's a cool little crevice to play in. You can stem up into a hole in a ceiling which will put you back into the main gully. If it wasn't such a loose climb to get to it, it would be a really cool bouldering problem to play in. You can see the spot in the picture of
Rock Canyon mouth - Trilogy Gully 1. Bad Bananas 2. Superbowl Wall 3. The Wasp 4. Trilogy Buttress 5. ? Unknown (3 routes; 1 set of chains) 6. ? Unknown (4 routes; 3 sets of chains) 7. Jobsite Notes: * For 5 & 6, Darren would know, but he's never around when I stop by The Quarry. * There are 2 bolted routes on the left/west side of Trilogy in the pic. They both look like alternate routes to the second pitch. below; it's the really dark spot straight above the spot marked as The Wasp.

Getting There

On the north side of the canyon mouth, use the trail immediately east of the water tank. Pass the first fork (where, if you went left, you'd go to Super Bowl Wall) continuing straight up the gully.

When you get near the base of The Wasp, there will be a steep scree to your left that you can follow around to the west side. (It's easier to go this way than along the dark rock that separates Super Bowl from The Wasp.)

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Wasp

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Tillite Delight
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Magic Helmet
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Radidudical
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tillite Delight
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Magic Helmet
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Radidudical
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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