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Routes in C. Lovely Tower

Discovering Sin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dog Ran Away, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fine Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goblin Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Treasures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lefty Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lithuanian Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Innocence S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lovely Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Me Gusta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Split Decision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Velvet Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Thugs V9-10 7C+
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stason Foster, 1989
Page Views: 4,748 total · 38/month
Shared By: climb all over on Mar 20, 2008
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

One of the cleanest lines around. Great "first" 12 interesting moves protected well where needed.

Location [Suggest Change]

Only Lovely Tower opposite of Fine Nine

Protection [Suggest Change]

bolts 4 and anchors??
CurtisG
  5.12a
CurtisG  
  5.12a
Can anyone comment as to the FA's intent on the direct line (lower traverse) or the large pockets up left towards the arete and a high traverse? Sep 30, 2008
Absolutely classic! Awesome crux sequence on small, positive holds on a vertical face. Oct 20, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.12a
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.12a
I can't comment on the FA's intent but I blew the onsight by trying the low rightward traverse. I found it very difficult to get high enough from the lower huecos to latch onto the high crimps. Sent the route next go using the higher traverse (shown in the photo of the route on this page). Seemed 12a using the higher traverse. Fun-- almost as fun as Lovely Arete.

Yes, 4 bolts and anchors. Feb 26, 2009
I think the FA is Mike Simpson or Eric Ulner....all these route should be in the Simpson guide.
Dave Groth Nov 30, 2010
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
  5.12a
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
  5.12a
Per the Ulner guide, the FA belongs to Stason Foster, 1989.

RE: the traverse, everyone I have seen uses the higher traverse, first moving left to the pocket and then rightward along the crimp line. Took me a long time to figure out the big move after the third clip. Had to find the secret foot beta for short people (5'3''). Sep 26, 2013
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Cool line, I thought the bolt at the crux could be moved left about a foot and then you can clip off the huge jug before entering the crux and that would protect the crux...that makes more sense then clipping off the crimps that follow. That being said cool climb! May 8, 2017

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