Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stason Foster, 1989
Page Views: 5,309 total · 39/month
Shared By: Scott Bouldien on Mar 20, 2008
Admins: chris tregge, Dave Hug

You & This Route

71 Opinions

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One of the cleanest lines around. Great "first" 12 interesting moves protected well where needed.


Only Lovely Tower opposite of Fine Nine


bolts 4 and anchors??
Can anyone comment as to the FA's intent on the direct line (lower traverse) or the large pockets up left towards the arete and a high traverse? Sep 30, 2008
Absolutely classic! Awesome crux sequence on small, positive holds on a vertical face. Oct 20, 2008
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
I can't comment on the FA's intent but I blew the onsight by trying the low rightward traverse. I found it very difficult to get high enough from the lower huecos to latch onto the high crimps. Sent the route next go using the higher traverse (shown in the photo of the route on this page). Seemed 12a using the higher traverse. Fun-- almost as fun as Lovely Arete.

Yes, 4 bolts and anchors. Feb 26, 2009
I think the FA is Mike Simpson or Eric Ulner....all these route should be in the Simpson guide.
Dave Groth Nov 30, 2010
Kate Mittendorf
Nashville, TN
Kate Mittendorf   Nashville, TN
Per the Ulner guide, the FA belongs to Stason Foster, 1989.

RE: the traverse, everyone I have seen uses the higher traverse, first moving left to the pocket and then rightward along the crimp line. Took me a long time to figure out the big move after the third clip. Had to find the secret foot beta for short people (5'3''). Sep 26, 2013
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
Cool line, I thought the bolt at the crux could be moved left about a foot and then you can clip off the huge jug before entering the crux and that would protect the crux...that makes more sense then clipping off the crimps that follow. That being said cool climb! May 8, 2017