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Routes in C. Lovely Tower

Discovering Sin S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dog Ran Away, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fine Nine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goblin Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Treasures S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lefty Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lithuanian Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Innocence S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lovely Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Me Gusta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Split Decision S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Velvet Green S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Thugs V9-10 7C+
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,968 total · 45/month
Shared By: Jeff Edge on Oct 8, 2007
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

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Description

Climb up a surprisingly engaging slab with committing crux moves up higher that can be baffling for some at first.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Location

Fine Nine is located on the main canyon wall, across from the Lovely Tower. It is the right of the two bolted lines on this face (on the left is Split Decision 12d, 3 bolts). It is most directly across from the Lovely Arete.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
A classic moderate for JF. It's popularity has left the beginning somewhat polished but don't let that stop you. Jan 2, 2008
Brett Winterbottom
Park City, UT
  5.9
Brett Winterbottom   Park City, UT
  5.9
A must climb for those climbers that don't really climb higher grades they call in fine nine for a reason. We climb this almost every time we come down Jun 9, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Very engaging! Nov 3, 2014
Marshall King
Olney, IL
 
Marshall King   Olney, IL
 
clean your shoes before climbing this one. technical feet all the way up this classic. Feb 24, 2016
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I've climbed in a lot of places around the world and this is one of the best slabs anywhere! Incredible climbing. I disagree with the grade, I think it's probably more in the harder 10 range but if we are using old school Yosemite grades 5.8 or 5.9. Because if this is 5.9 then Lovely arete should probably be around 5.10 a or b! Also, I think it dangerous to give such low grades on routes that are pretty spicy at the top, maybe fill in the end of the route with a bolt that you can easily clip from the huge jug you are on...just a thought so new climbers aren't slamming into the slab with their foot behind the rope...awesome route though! May 8, 2017
Phil Cuntsler
Arkansas
 
Phil Cuntsler   Arkansas
 
Best warm up ever. Get the mental game on point for many of the other engaging (harder) awesome slab routes. This is a solid slab 5.9. Feb 4, 2018
Shao Hao
  5.9
Shao Hao  
  5.9
I think it deserves a 5.9 rating based on technique and strength, but this slab will throw off your 5.12 climber if they don't pay attention to beta or get hasty on slab. Very polarized views on this but I still hold it as one of my all time favourite climbs. Really fun sequence and challenges you mentally. Also as a fun sized climber I'm pretty sure the first move is a slab dyno for anyone under 5'5. Apr 9, 2018
Nick Tripp  
 
Perhaps the most polarizing climb at Jackson: you love it or you hate it.
It's the best technical slab climb at Jackson. As soon as you stick the starting slab dyno, it's an absolute Taoist delight to flow through the moves as water over round stones in a stream.

A Fine Nine indeed. May 14, 2018

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