Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Tim Kemple?
Page Views: 825 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Mar 11, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This problem starts on the left edge of an overhanging chimney. Get established below the overhang, with feet on a boulder and good holds to the right of the edge. Make a lunge to a crimp, heelhook, and make tough slap moves over the bulge, finishing up the easy chimney that splits the slab.
I wondered if the FA had avoided the chimney, but I've convinced myself that it would be highly contrived (and really scary) to force oneself to beeline up the overgrown slab for a direct finish. Who knows?

Location

At the start of the trail leading to the Boulder Natural area, on a big boulder split by a chimney

Protection

Pad

Photos

BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
I'd assume it tops out up the slab with the use of the crack rather than crawling into the chimney... it was Kemple after all. Nov 1, 2012
Alec Woolley
Allenstown
  V7
Alec Woolley   Allenstown
  V7
This climb is actually pretty amazing. People should toss pads down just to try the jump off the boulder to the crimp, so much fun! I can't see this being v5 though. It's not the highball factor either, feels harder than Individual Medley and Universal Socket. Satisfying climb either way. Apr 25, 2015