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Routes in Starr Mountain

Big Men, Small Airplanes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buck Nasty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucky Strikes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Men Without Hats T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasing to the Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sound of One Finger Bleeding, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Dunn, John Fain - 1987
Page Views: 1,444 total · 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Fun route, with excellent protection and interesting moves. Rated 5.9 by the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, it's soft for the grade, but worthwhile nevertheless.

Work your way up a huge left-facing flake, using the flake itself or the crack between it and the main wall. When the flake ends, follow the face above and surmount an overhang with great holds, then continue up the face to the top.

Location

Starts about five minutes down the trail from the Lucky Strikes area; you'll pass two dangerous spots where the trail is cut by a v-notch in the cliff. The first is protected by a safety cable, but the second isn't, so proceed carefully. Flake Route starts just past the second cleft.

Protection

Medium gear; nuts and cams up to #2 Camalot or the like. Build a gear anchor and/or sling a tree at the top.

Photos

Alan Brock
Cleveland, TN
  5.9-
Alan Brock   Cleveland, TN
  5.9-
Fun route that protects very well and always seems to have good holds. No real crux. DCA lists it as 5.9, but it's VERY soft for that grade; 5.8 at best. By far the most dangerous part of the climb is crossing the chasm just before the climb starts. Be careful and consider anchoring in your belayer! Oct 2, 2012
Very fun route, not sure the 5.9- grade is very fitting though. Great holds all the way and a fun climb. Can easily be top roped on a tree above but be sure to back up your anchor up, the tree above isn't exactly a stud. There are places up top for cams or nuts, and also other trees if you have webbing. I have 30ft of webbing and it was plenty enough for a great back up. Also, the belayer should definitely anchor in, there is not a lot of room at the ledge where the climb begins.

5.8 Feb 8, 2016

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