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Routes in Starr Mountain

Big Men, Small Airplanes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buck Nasty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucky Strikes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Men Without Hats T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasing to the Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sound of One Finger Bleeding, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Unknown (Maybe Richie Janow, who named it)
Page Views: 1,242 total · 17/month
Shared By: Alan Brock on Nov 17, 2012
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Climb a well-protected corner to the roof using the crack and occasional face holds. Traverse left underneath the roof and round the corner. Take a moment here to enjoy the view and exposure. Once you've had your fill of the river valley below, continue to the top on easier, but sometimes nasty, terrain.


Start in a corner about 10 feet to the right of Big Men, Small Airplanes and about 15 feet left of Lucky Strikes.


Standard rack will do nicely. #1 Mastercam through a #3 Camalot. Sling your gear well, or rope drag will shut you down quickly! Build a gear anchor or sling a tree at the top. Work out your belayer communication before you start as they are long out of sight/earshot once you top out.


I am not sure who climbed this route first but I did it on 4 cams in the mid 90's and have never been back to it. The upper pitch after you pull around the corner/ceiling makes commmucation with your belayer all but impossible.

I set a long sling with double cams at the end of the ceiling corner and downclimbed, cleaned, and then back up and out. I don't remember it being 5.8, 5.7 yes, but 5.8 - not really.

The name is most appropriate because the top is moss covered and nasty. Be prepared to run-out the top on a couple of pieces and just go. Just scope your placements before you start up and enjoy the exposed view of the the Hiwassee River Gorge! Jun 10, 2015

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