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Routes in Starr Mountain

Big Men, Small Airplanes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buck Nasty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucky Strikes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Men Without Hats T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasing to the Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sound of One Finger Bleeding, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Howie Cox, Bob Ordner - 1981
Page Views: 1,892 total, 14/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 2, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Like the DCA says, this is one of the best routes at Starr Mountain. The roof near the end is exposed but nicely protected.

Starting on a short arete, sometimes tenuous moves lead to a short roof with nice horizontals. Pull the roof and continue to the top, enjoying the spectacular view of the Hiwassee River.

Location

Starts 10' right of Vulcans Do Not Bluff, across from the Pleasing to the Touch face.

Protection

Small to medium nuts, cams. Gear anchor at the top.

Photos

Bolted anchors are now installed at the top of this climb. These might be the only set of anchors at this crag (aside from the 2 or 3 sport routes). May 15, 2017
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
Not pg13 in my book. A 4 slots in well at the bulge of the lower crux. After that that, you can pretty much sew it up Feb 19, 2017
I first climbed Lucky in 1992, and it is one of my favorite 5.9's in SE Tennessee and have climbed it many times.

If you are climbing it on lead be sure to set gear from the rocking-chair just before you slide out and around the arete because a fall here could be nasty. Also, you can pull the ceiling by working up to it and reaching over and seting a 0.75 Camalot to the right in a horizontal with a 4' sling and protect the pull. Once up you can set a 1 or 2 in the horizontal and then catch another set before you top out.

Again I rate it as 5.9 only - not 5.9+. Jun 10, 2015
PG-13 in my book; the protection before the crux it not all that good. Nov 11, 2008