Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Starr Mountain

Big Men, Small Airplanes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buck Nasty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flake Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucky Strikes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Men Without Hats T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pleasing to the Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sound of One Finger Bleeding, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Bob Ordner, Howie Cox - 1981
Page Views: 1,191 total, 10/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 1, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Good protection takes some of the scare out of this roofy climb.

Starting in a left-facing corner, climb the corner hand/finger crack to a spacious ledge (see variation below). Continue up from the ledge to the big roof and follow another hand crack out to its end, then up the face to the top.

Variation - 5.8

Climb the left-facing corner and finish at the ledge without pulling the roof. Bolted anchors here make toproping easy. About 30'.

Location

Starts about 15' right of The Sound of One Finger Bleeding. Rap down from trees at the top.

Protection

Small to medium gear; tape up for hand jamming. Build a gear anchor at the top.

Photos

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
The 5.8 lower section is a nice lead in its own right. Great crack climbing and good pro. Feb 15, 2011