Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 825 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008 with improvements by Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.

Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).

Location

Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.

Photos