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Routes in Red Wall

Air France S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Armed and Dangerous S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Red Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Diagonal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earwig T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Cracker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fledgling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hatchling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk's Nest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
LF variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Sombra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Leisure Sport S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucid Fairyland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Molotov Cocktail S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Phase Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TNT S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trunk Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 646 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008 with updates from Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.

Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).

Location

Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.

Photos

Karl R. Kiser
  5.8
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.8
This climb was probably bolted the same time as Lucid Fairyland. No person knows the name and it should be considered a separate climb to the same anchor. It originally consisted of three bolts then left to easy climbing. Climbing right and over the fourth bolt is 5.9. Mar 13, 2010

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