Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 680 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008 with updates from Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.

Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).

Location

Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.

Photos

Karl R. Kiser
  5.8
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.8
This climb was probably bolted the same time as Lucid Fairyland. No person knows the name and it should be considered a separate climb to the same anchor. It originally consisted of three bolts then left to easy climbing. Climbing right and over the fourth bolt is 5.9. Mar 13, 2010