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Routes in Red Wall

Air France S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Armed and Dangerous S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Red Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Diagonal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earwig T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Cracker S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fledgling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hatchling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk's Nest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
LF variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Sombra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Leisure Sport S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucid Fairyland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Molotov Cocktail S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Phase Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TNT S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trunk Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 615 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

An easier way to the Lucid Fairyland anchors. Start as for Lucid Fairyland with bouldery moves and a few big pockets. At the 2nd bolt, go left passing a horizontal crack (an unsure 5.8 leader might want a big wired nut here). Two more bolts lead through a thin section (crux) to the anchor. This crux part is a little contrived, because you could escape to 4th class ledges to the left just before it and still get to the chains.

Edit: I'd guess this climb is now more likely improved, and made more independent, by continuing up a new extension La Sombra instead of moving back to the Lucid Fairyland anchor (but I haven't done it yet).

Location

Start as for Lucid Fairyland (the 3rd route from the right on Red Wall). This climb is the left variation of that route.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Optional: big stoppers.

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.8
Karl Kiser  
  5.8
This climb was probably bolted the same time as Lucid Fairyland. No person knows the name and it should be considered a separate climb to the same anchor. It originally consisted of three bolts then left to easy climbing. Climbing right and over the fourth bolt is 5.9. Mar 13, 2010