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Routes in Red Wall

Air France S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Armed and Dangerous S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Red Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Diagonal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earwig T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Cracker S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fledgling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hatchling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk's Nest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
LF variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Sombra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Leisure Sport S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucid Fairyland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Molotov Cocktail S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Phase Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TNT S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trunk Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 141 total, 6/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Jan 29, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

There are two pitches although the first pitch to bolted anchors is most typically done. The second pitch follows the path of least resistance, around a small roof, then goes up and left to a small tree. One can rap off one of the bolted top anchors on Red Wall or walk off right.

Location

The route is in a right trending dihedral right of Air France. Climb the awkward crack to bolted anchors shared with TNT (about 50 feet). The route can be used to access the bolted anchors to the right and TR the harder sport routes.

Protection

Trad rack with gear to 2 inches.

Photos

Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
Had some trouble locating the start, but with Mtn. Pro. I figured it out.
Awkward DOES describe this climb/crack, but if you know how to stem, and are patient, it goes pretty smoothly.
Probably the oddest/most thoughtful moves are at the bottom(first 15-20'), but trust those shoes/feet and you'll be fine.
I sewed it up pretty well with gear, as I didn't want to go too far right if I did come off(I never felt like I would).
This turned out to be a good idea, as my second(who never falls on things I lead) DID come off, and not falling that far was helpful for her to get back on.
Had fun with it, but it IS a little awkward in places, and requires patience as you figure out where to go, and how/where to place gear, but it IS fun, and worth it.
Rapped off from bolts. Feb 27, 2017