Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Red Wall

Air France S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Armed and Dangerous S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Red Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Diagonal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earwig T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Cracker S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fledgling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hatchling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk's Nest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
LF variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Sombra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Leisure Sport S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucid Fairyland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Molotov Cocktail S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Phase Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TNT S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trunk Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,759 total, 28/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope.

P1: Start to right of a large shoulder of rock and traverse up and left on little pro to the bottom of the dihedral and a bolt. Continue up the dihedral past another bolt (5.7) and find bolted anchor with chains a little left of the top of the dihedral. 30 meters.

P1 var: Make a direct start in a kind of alcove below and slightly left of the dihedral in the below photo. This is a higher quality start if perhaps a bit more spice-y.


P2: Climb up while trending slightly right through black rock with some pro; watch for looseness. Follow grassy ledge or ramp - initially steep - up and right to find above a right facing corner or slot and ascend it. Make the first couple moves into the corner and clip the now revealed bolt on the right. The route continues straight up the corner, passing to the left of a large bush and then up to the top.

P2 var courtesy of kevinnlong: If you go straight up from the belay - left of the black rock - to the roof and traverse right to the corner, then P2 is quite good. The traverse right is well protected, has great rock / position, and feels like solid 5.8.

P2 alternative as shown in the 1985 topo: Traverse right over to Spiderman's P1 bolted anchor and finish on the second pitch of Spiderman.

Location

See the below photo. Locate a large right facing dihedral which starts about 30 feet up from the ground.

Protection

Standard rack up to 2 inches. Two bolts on P1 and then a bolted anchor with chains. P2 has one hidden bolt which appears to be the inferior Star Dryvin sleeve-and-nail style.
Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
Was there last week. I agree with Karl, the climbing might be a little stiffer than 5.7. Gear placement was pretty good, but you had to be patient and look, a little creative in a place or two. Touch all the rock, as a few places it was loose or loose/hollow sounding.
I liked pitch one, but it took me a long time to find/figure out the start. Using MTN Proj. and the associated pictures helped me dial it in.
I did the standard version of pitch 2, and liked it. You do have to watch for loose stuff, but it protected pretty well and was interesting to climb.
Walked off to the climbers right, and down an obvious/broad gully. Easy descent, just follow the base of the wall as it goes down and it leads you right back to the start. Feb 27, 2017
Karl Kiser
  5.7+
Karl Kiser  
  5.7+
The direct start is the better climb. It is also better to think of the climbing as a bit harder than merely 5.7. Jan 31, 2016
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.7
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.7
About 20 feet up the second pitch is a prominent bulge/roof with an obvious (chalked) seem underneath that leads to the climber's right towards the corner. Completing this traverse was very nice with great rock and position and felt like solid 5.8. It is well protected and is much better than going up the brushy gully. If you go straight up from the belay (left of the black rock) to the roof and exit right to the corner, then P2 is quite good. Nov 7, 2011
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
Thanks for posting the topo, Bob! I have added some comments to it. Jan 6, 2010
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
  5.7
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
  5.7
I prefer going right to the Spiderman anchor and then up for P2. One can place enough gear (I think I got in 5 pieces once) to make it pretty safe but it takes time and usually I just put in one or two.

Going straight up from the Red Wall anchor can be loose and unpleasant, but there are bolts. Jan 5, 2010
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
We were there the other day, great day for climbing. Just wanted to let everyone know that on the climb Red Wall there is a tv size boulder just above the last belay ledge on pitch 2 that is loose. Be careful. Dec 31, 2009