Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,563 total · 27/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope.

P1: Start to right of a large shoulder of rock and traverse up and left on little pro to the bottom of the dihedral and a bolt. Continue up the dihedral past another bolt (5.7) and find bolted anchor with chains a little left of the top of the dihedral. 30 meters.

P1 var: Make a direct start in a kind of alcove below and slightly left of the dihedral in the below photo. This is a higher quality start if perhaps a bit more spice-y.
Direct start to Red Wall.

P2: Climb up while trending slightly right through black rock with some pro; watch for looseness. Follow grassy ledge or ramp - initially steep - up and right to find above a right facing corner or slot and ascend it. Make the first couple moves into the corner and clip the now revealed bolt on the right. The route continues straight up the corner, passing to the left of a large bush and then up to the top.

P2 var courtesy of kevinnlong: If you go straight up from the belay - left of the black rock - to the roof and traverse right to the corner, then P2 is quite good. The traverse right is well protected, has great rock / position, and feels like solid 5.8.

P2 alternative as shown in the 1985 topo: Traverse right over to Spiderman's P1 bolted anchor and finish on the second pitch of Spiderman.

Location

See the below photo. Locate a large right facing dihedral which starts about 30 feet up from the ground.
Some two-pitch trad / mixed routes on Red Wall.

Protection

Standard rack up to 2 inches. Two bolts on P1 and then a bolted anchor with chains. P2 has one hidden bolt which appears to be the inferior Star Dryvin sleeve-and-nail style.

Photos