Avg: 2.6 from 25 votes
Routes in Red Wall
|Air France S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Armed and Dangerous S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Big Red Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Diagonal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Earwig T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fire Cracker S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fledgling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hatchling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hawk's Nest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|LF variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|La Sombra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Left Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Leisure Sport S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lucid Fairyland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Molotov Cocktail S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Narcolepsy Nightmare S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Phase Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Red Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Spiderman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|TNT S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Trunk Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,759 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on Jan 3, 2010|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionGave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope.
P1: Start to right of a large shoulder of rock and traverse up and left on little pro to the bottom of the dihedral and a bolt. Continue up the dihedral past another bolt (5.7) and find bolted anchor with chains a little left of the top of the dihedral. 30 meters.
P1 var: Make a direct start in a kind of alcove below and slightly left of the dihedral in the below photo. This is a higher quality start if perhaps a bit more spice-y.
P2: Climb up while trending slightly right through black rock with some pro; watch for looseness. Follow grassy ledge or ramp - initially steep - up and right to find above a right facing corner or slot and ascend it. Make the first couple moves into the corner and clip the now revealed bolt on the right. The route continues straight up the corner, passing to the left of a large bush and then up to the top.
P2 var courtesy of kevinnlong: If you go straight up from the belay - left of the black rock - to the roof and traverse right to the corner, then P2 is quite good. The traverse right is well protected, has great rock / position, and feels like solid 5.8.
P2 alternative as shown in the 1985 topo: Traverse right over to Spiderman's P1 bolted anchor and finish on the second pitch of Spiderman.