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Routes in Red Wall

Air France S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Armed and Dangerous S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Red Roof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Diagonal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Earwig T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Cracker S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fledgling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hatchling S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hawk's Nest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
LF variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
La Sombra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Leisure Sport S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucid Fairyland S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Molotov Cocktail S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Narcolepsy Nightmare S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Phase Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TNT S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trunk Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,875 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Gave this a "Great" rating just for P1. P2 is okay. Can rap from the top of P1 with a 60 meter rope. Don't let the 5.9 rating scare you away as it applies to the P1 variation and is well protected.

P1 5.8: Trend left over ledges, then up and back right past two newer bolts to an older, original first [lone] bolt. Then move right and up to a nice left-trending finger crack with good pro on easier terrain. At end of this crack find bolt above and continue up to a horizontal weakness with gear placements. Make a move or two left along the weakness and then up past another bolt and beyond to gear anchors with chains. 30 meters. (note: I have not done the run-out start to the first bolt and deduce it from historical beta provided by others MP.com users)

P1 Var, ~5.9 (perhaps part of a different route): To the right of the original P1 start, climb up past the line of four bolts (crux 5.9). Then trend left and up to the nice left-trending finger crack with good pro. Finish P1 as above.

P2, 5.6: Climb up and a little left from the anchor. Find what pro you can while continuing up and trending just a little more left to the bottom of a gully. Felt 5.6 and run-out but may have passed up an opportunity for gear placement (i.e., maybe a ~4 inch cam or, alternatively, a ~1/2 inch cam?). Ascend the gully to the top. Less than 30 meters.

Location

We started roughly 50 feet uphill from the direct start to Red Wall route, beneath four safely spaced bolts (P1 Var). See this photo:

Protection

With the sporty start we did, we encountered 6 bolts on the first pitch but the 5.8 leader will want to supplement with gear 1/2 to 1 inch. No bolts on P2 with some runout on 5.6 terrain; see p2 description for possible gear sizes to protect the 5.6 terrain.

I recall at least one of the P1 "bolts" having a star pattern on the head of the nail - probably one of the last two bolts. Star Dryvin nail-and-sleeve bolts have this pattern and have inferior strength. Back it up!

Photos

Karl Kiser
  5.8
Karl Kiser  
  5.8
The historic bolt is at the bottom of the small dihedral on pitch one. There is a good gear placement in the crack to the left of this bolt. As Steve H. mentioned, new bolts replaced the higher old bolts on the same pitch. Jan 31, 2016
Star drive in bolts on Spiderman were retro'd in recent years (same holes used for new 3/8" bolts). Feb 4, 2010