Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Columbia-Shushwap
> Bugaboos
> Crescent Towers
Ears Between
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 110
votes
Routes in Crescent Towers
|
|
Ears Between T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Edwards-Neufeld T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Eeyore T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Lion's Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Lions and Tigers (Bad Kitty) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Thatcher Cracker T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Tiger’s Trail T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Lofthouse and CMC party, 1968 |
| Page Views: | 11,160 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Meredith DB on Dec 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This route climbs the center of the south face of the Donkey's Ears, and tops out in a notch between the two ears.
There are two options to start:
A. Direct start (5.8): start at 2 cracks that meet to form a triangle about 15 feet up (see photo). Climb up the triangle to an alcove below some flakes/roof. Move right and take cracks/flakes to the ledge.
B. Traverse in from the left on an approach ledge. This avoids the 5.8 climbing. Look for where the wall turns black with lichen, then go 30 m further.
The pitches are:
1. Climb broken rock for a short easy pitch. 2. Head left up cracks, and belay below a notch that leads to a ramp (5.4). 3. Go up the notch and mantle to get to the ramp (awkward). Follow the ramp and belay at its end (5.7). 4. Head up flakes toward the chimney and belay in an alcove (5.7). 5. Continue up the chimney and belay at the notch between the ears (5.7). 6. Use cracks/ledges on the north side to summit the East Ear.
From the top of the east ear, do one steep rappel to the east. Then scramble first north, then east to access the eastern slopes of the Crescent towers. Stay as high as possible. Work down the slopes to the col with Eastpost, then hike down to Applebee dome.
There are two options to start:
A. Direct start (5.8): start at 2 cracks that meet to form a triangle about 15 feet up (see photo). Climb up the triangle to an alcove below some flakes/roof. Move right and take cracks/flakes to the ledge.
B. Traverse in from the left on an approach ledge. This avoids the 5.8 climbing. Look for where the wall turns black with lichen, then go 30 m further.
The pitches are:
1. Climb broken rock for a short easy pitch. 2. Head left up cracks, and belay below a notch that leads to a ramp (5.4). 3. Go up the notch and mantle to get to the ramp (awkward). Follow the ramp and belay at its end (5.7). 4. Head up flakes toward the chimney and belay in an alcove (5.7). 5. Continue up the chimney and belay at the notch between the ears (5.7). 6. Use cracks/ledges on the north side to summit the East Ear.
From the top of the east ear, do one steep rappel to the east. Then scramble first north, then east to access the eastern slopes of the Crescent towers. Stay as high as possible. Work down the slopes to the col with Eastpost, then hike down to Applebee dome.
Location
This route climbs the center of the south face of the Donkey's Ears, and tops out in a notch between the two ears.
To approach, hike up to Applebee Dome camping area. Head left and up from the campground, heading for the base of the wall. Follow vague trails through boulders and past the remnants of the Crescent Glacier.
To approach, hike up to Applebee Dome camping area. Head left and up from the campground, heading for the base of the wall. Follow vague trails through boulders and past the remnants of the Crescent Glacier.
13 Comments