Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lofthouse and CMC party, 1968
Page Views: 6,130 total · 44/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on Dec 9, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the center of the south face of the Donkey's Ears, and tops out in a notch between the two ears.

There are two options to start:

A. Direct start (5.8): start at 2 cracks that meet to form a triangle about 15 feet up (see photo). Climb up the triangle to an alcove below some flakes/roof. Move right and take cracks/flakes to the ledge.

B. Traverse in from the left on an approach ledge. This avoids the 5.8 climbing. Look for where the wall turns black with lichen, then go 30 m further.

The pitches are:
1. Climb broken rock for a short easy pitch. 2. Head left up cracks, and belay below a notch that leads to a ramp (5.4). 3. Go up the notch and mantle to get to the ramp (awkward). Follow the ramp and belay at its end (5.7). 4. Head up flakes toward the chimney and belay in an alcove (5.7). 5. Continue up the chimney and belay at the notch between the ears (5.7). 6. Use cracks/ledges on the north side to summit the East Ear.

From the top of the east ear, do one steep rappel to the east. Then scramble first north, then east to access the eastern slopes of the Crescent towers. Stay as high as possible. Work down the slopes to the col with Eastpost, then hike down to Applebee dome.

Location

This route climbs the center of the south face of the Donkey's Ears, and tops out in a notch between the two ears.

To approach, hike up to Applebee Dome camping area. Head left and up from the campground, heading for the base of the wall. Follow vague trails through boulders and past the remnants of the Crescent Glacier.

Protection

Take a standard rack. There is some fixed gear on the route.

Photos