Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 160 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tess Wendel on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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There is an approach pitch either via the ramp (simul climb) or the direct start to Ears Between

From there P1 was probably 5.7 - not super straightforward, just follow the line of least resistance- this felt the dirtiest. 2nd pitch had a fun little 5.6 hand crack and then you end up in a little bit of a sand gully feature but found a big ledge and set up a belay.
Once you start pitch 3 you'll want to be on the lookout on the left for a more chimney feature which we missed and ended up going straight toward black slabs.
P4 At the top of the black slabs is a little offwidth feature which you could climb but most head right onto the ridge (part of the descent) to a little notch feature.
P5 where you take face up which goes to a fun hand crack 5.7 and then continues to some harder 5.9 climbing on a leaning crack to the top.

For being relatively less traveled it wasn't as dirty as anticipated and had some cool cracks and got you thinking. I'd definitely recommend for someone looking for a short moderate route near to camp especially if you prefer a more alpine experience (fewer people and enjoy a bit of routefinding).


It starts the same place as Ears Between but then heads to the right. So take the ramp (4th class- we simuled) or the harder direct start which puts you on a nice ledge where the "ears" are up and to your left while Eeyore is up and to the right.


Took a standard double rack since we weren't sure what to expect since this route gets a little less traffic than Lions Way or Ears Between. All gear anchors. Protects well. I think we were glad to have some small gear for the last 5.9 pitch.