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Routes in Lower Walt's Rocks

Cowboy Junkie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
K2R T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perfect Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Function T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Gene West & Walt Shipley, 1989
Page Views: 5,003 total, 41/month
Shared By: tony grice on Dec 6, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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36 Opinions

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Description

Thin crack start first 40 ft (thin cams,nuts) opens to perfect fingers then hands in a slot, a few layback moves to the top. Two cruxes, one in the beginning (thin and balancy) another one in the slot/flare near the top.

Location

Located on the Lower Walts Rocks. Follow approach as per Walts, but before you climb up to White Rain Area, hike left out of the main approach wash well below Upper Walts. Easy approach from the wash then boulder hop to the base.

Protection

Good gear everywhere on this one. Bring the thin gear, lots of finger size up to #1 Camalot. Trad anchor and walk off right through a vegetation choked gully (not bad).
GDavis  
Climbed it last week on my birthday. A super duper good rock climb, worth the beautiful hike. Felt 5.9, perhaps because I'd been sand bagged so often this season, but even the flare was comfortable and secure. Very good protection the whole way, many large stoppers. Leave yer stuff way back at the junction to upper Walts or you'll have to hike back to get it. Dec 8, 2015
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Such a beautiful line! Flare beta: layback. Way easier than trying to stay inside the thing. It may seem like a terrifying idea on lead but it's really solid and there are good stances every few moves to stand up and reach in to place. Mar 25, 2013
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Classic JT crack climbing. Tricky jams in the left facing corner section. Feb 3, 2013
Richard Shore
  5.10b
Richard Shore  
  5.10b
A full set of nuts goes a long way on this route. I placed nearly the entire set. 2 or 3 0.5 camalots are good too. I thought the flare was harder than the thin tips start, but YMMV. Classy splitter. Apr 5, 2012
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.10-
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.10-
A long, but phenomenal approach to a super beautiful area - doesn't feel like you're in Joshua Tree at all. The route itself is really good, but much more awkward than I was expecting.

I couldn't find the above mentioned tricam, but there was a nice purple link cam stuck in the upper crack. I spent about 20 minutes on it before giving up. Mar 30, 2012
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
For anyone heading out to Lower Walt's, there is an almost brand-new white tri-cam laying in the boulders at the base of this climb. I was surprised by the stoutness of the start of this climb, and in my panic dropped the poor bugger. We couldn't find it afterwards, but maybe you will have better eyes. Free booty! Apr 18, 2011
RTM
  5.10b
RTM  
  5.10b
this route is pretty much responsible for the "discovery" of the Underground, that and my very slow second! Mar 13, 2009