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Edge of Fright
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.9 from 12
votes
Early Access
Routes in Poe Buttress
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Terrapin Station T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 39.42141, -105.2548 |
| FA: | Noel Childs and Rufus Miller |
| Page Views: | 3,338 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Stricker on Dec 5, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Edge of Fright joins Mississippi Half Step as one of the "Triple Crown" classics on the Poe Buttress. It links up three cracks on the right edge of the buttress, and is characterized by committing moves above small protection.
The first pitch begins with the Half Step, then steps right at the obvious, horizontal crack and continues up a positive, finger crack (5.10).
The second pitch is the Business, and begins directly above the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Climb slabby moves to an easy hand and fist crack. Collect your psyche, place some pro then step left and climb a thin seam with hard to place small protection. A rest is gained at the horizontal before making hard moves left to the final crack. Another tenuous rest is followed by a challenging, final crack which eventually widens to thin hands before stepping left again to join the Half Step at its second belay.
Although the Edge of Fright is a scary lead it protects pretty well with modern small gear. It is arguably the best route on the Poe Buttress. Get on it!
Location
The route is on the far right side of the Poe Buttress. A 70M rope will get you down from the botled anchor at the top of pitch 2 of the Half Step. Or continue to the top of Uptown Toodaloo and do 3 rappels with a 60M rope down Off Your Rocker.
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