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Routes in Courthouse Rock

Groover, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Idiopathic S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Indie Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: M. Rangel, M. Trainor, et al
Page Views: 1,945 total, 16/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Dec 4, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The climb follows a huge groove in the southeast buttress, look for a large roof 50' above the ground. Squeeze thru the roof and end up on the crux on pitch 3. It's a choice between wide hands or pro, I go for pro. Stem thru and voila.

Location

Look for the huge roof at the bottom of a groove on the left of courthouse rock. Just 100yds left of the mountaineers route.

Protection

standard rack from fingers thru #4 camalot; two bolts on each of the first three pitches with bolted anchors. Last two pitches are 200' each with only one bolt between them; go right at end of 4th pitch to find belay bolt. Rappel Mountaineer's Route with double ropes.

Photos

Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c/d
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c/d
Went out this beautiful Friday... I have lead the bottom two pitches of the Groover, but thought it was time to see about the 3rd. Went well, redpoint. Bring a 4 for the crux if you want to pro it well. Great fun out there, John Kynyk lead pitch 1 and cruised it. Love AZ-it's mid December and am enjoying 70 degree weather-nice! I agree that p1 & 2 are 5.9, p3 is 5.10, the runout occurs above the 1st three pitches on easier ground. Just be careful of the loose stuff. Dec 20, 2009
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
The first three pitches are @ 90'; pitch 4 is easy 5th and a chimney that widens, belay on ledge on the right w/bolt on right wall; pitch 5 is easy 5th on wider chimney/gulley to the last 5th class portion, go to end of 60m rope and belay off gear. 4th to top and walk north to mtneers route/gulley. Look for cairns marking the rap route; double ropes. Apr 1, 2009
Robin like the bird
mountain center ,CA
  5.10c/d R
Robin like the bird   mountain center ,CA
  5.10c/d R
can anybody tell me about how many pitches to expect, and what the grade of those pitches are? Mar 4, 2009
bio
mesa, az
bio   mesa, az
The first 3 pitches are good, after that it's just to get to top, pretty grungy. The crux is well protected and a fun, short move.
The location and scenery are great. Jan 3, 2008