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Routes in Courthouse Rock

Groover, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Idiopathic S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Indie Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 700 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,086 total · 49/month
Shared By: Aaron Collins on Mar 27, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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idiopathic- unknown origin

700' of moderate,dirty but fun and exciting climbing, that leads to a cool summit.The first pitch is the crux and has 17 bolts to chains. The second pitch has 10 bolts and crawls up a cool chimney-esk groove that has a really cool belay. It's a really cool pitch tambien!! Pitch three continues up the groove for 6 or so bolts then traverses out right at a 45 degree angle for thee bolts to a belay owl cove. Forth pitch continues up right on easy terrain to the summit.

Location

The dyke just to the right of Groover. The first bolt is aprox. 20 ft up. Rap the route. Watch for rocks as you pull the ropes!!

Protection

HELMET!!!
18QDs
4 expendable runners
2 60m ropes mandatory to rap off
RazRez  
GPS coordinates (WGS84 hddd.ddddd°)

Start of Idiopathic:
N33.46194 W113.35839 Feb 27, 2013
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
I was the one that posted the route, not this guys route. But I did feel like I was the fa with all the cleaning I did on it:) great route to those who did the work on it. I did doi an aid line off of the original route that took some bolts but that went to nowhere and drilling on lead on crap rock in aiders was too taxing so I haven’t finished it. Dec 12, 2017
Marcy M
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9 PG13
Marcy M   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9 PG13
Fletch, according to this, the FA is a guy named Aaron (from albinoyoungn.com/2013/02/26…). Same guy who posted the route?

"The route we climbed was called “Idiopathic” that my friend Aaron bolted a few years back. He rated the climbing at a solid 5.8 standard, which I definitely agree with. The route was very tall, about 700′ from start to finish, comprised of 4 pitches. We started in the mid afternoon and got to the top of the 4th pitch by 5:30pm. It started to get dark so we scrambled to get down the rappels as fast as we could. We touched ground right when it started to get really dark, and walked back to the car for almost an hour in the pitch black, with only headlamps on." Dec 12, 2017
Marcy M
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9 PG13
Marcy M   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.9 PG13
Pitch 1 is fun with a moderate choss factor. I extended a few of my draws and was still feeling drag near the top. Choss factor and bolt spacing increases on pitch 2, ending with a weird belay anchor; we left some cord and 'biners to avoid stuck ropes. Opted out of continuing further due to the chossiness. Dec 11, 2017
Jul S
  5.9- PG13
Jul S  
  5.9- PG13
P3 - Bolt 11 is NOT up and right from bolt 10; it is straight right. After traversing to bolt 10, don't climb up to the ledge above the alcove, but continue traversing right (below the alcove) to find the 11th bolt around the corner. Then the anchors are at the next, larger alcove. Jan 17, 2017
nflick
Salt Lake City, UT
nflick   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 2/28/2016, the right bolt at the belay station at the top of P3/bottom of P4 is loose. It only moves back and forth 1 to 1.5 millimeters, but I expect with the quality of the rock it will work itself looser over time. Be careful. Feb 28, 2016
Clayton S.
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.9-
Clayton S.   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.9-
Climbed this route yesterday and had a great time swinging leads and taking in the views. Not sure if the route has cleaned up a lot since previous commentators but this route's rock/pro is on par with backcountry AZ climbing. Sure there is some loose rock on the route but there are plenty of good (obvious) holds to use and the rock did not detract from my experience. Like others we did get a rope stuck so be prepared / understand how to deal with this before climbing this route. I highly recommend a helmet because more than likely when you pull your ropes some rock will come down with them. Feb 17, 2015
beytzim  
Nate, You than man!! Thanks!! May 8, 2014
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.8+ R
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.8+ R
I replaced the chains and hangers on pitches #1 & #2. Now, when you RAP off pitch #2, just go directly off the edge rather than going back through the gully. It will save a massive amount of rope drag and will keep your rope from getting caught. Mar 17, 2014
NC Rock Climber
The Oven, AKA Phoenix
 
NC Rock Climber   The Oven, AKA Phoenix
 
Fun, varied and moderate climbing on a cool desert massif. The exposure and views from this route are amazing. The only issue, and imho it is a big issue, is the rock quality. The rock is chossy, flakey, crumbly and generally just shitty. I don't think that this route will improve with time; the choss factor will remain. On better rock, I would give this route 3 stars. As it is, it gets 1.5. I don't regret doing it, but can't see myself going back.

A few folks commented on route finding on the third pitch. At the 9th bolt (the last one you can see) go right. Not up and right, but right, to find bolt 10. After clipping bolt 10, continue up and right to the belay. Other than that, route finding is really straightforward. Dec 20, 2013
Shawn C
San Francisco, CA
Shawn C   San Francisco, CA
+1 on the stuck rope comment from beytzim above. From the 2nd rap anchor we also nearly got our rope stuck due almost entirely to rope drag near the 3rd anchor and because the rope needs to curve around a big ledge above 2nd anchor. In order to free our rope my partner put me on belay (with the tail of some of the rope) and I walked/traversed out to the right about 10-15 feet so that the rope angle was straightened out some. Then I was able to fairly easily pull the rope. Without this adjustment the two of us could put all our weight on the pull rope and it wouldn't even move. Dec 9, 2013
Shawn C
San Francisco, CA
Shawn C   San Francisco, CA
Yup, chossy. Camping-latern-sized rock in the middle of P3 ready to topple. BEWARE. Wanted to clean it, but didn't have the stamina. On that note, the large crack/chimney feature to the left of the start of Idiopathic is not Idiopathic and is meant to be done with trad gear or someone who feels like risking broken ankles. P2 has about 15(?) bolts. I found the mysterious hidden bolt on P3, but couldn't figure out where to go next and was spooked, tired and cold. Sorry about leaving that massive rock up there. It's just to the left of the hidden bolt on P3.

Watch out for rapping down after dark. This is wilderness and there are no trails around. It's simple bush whacking, but might be difficult to find your way back to the car after dark. Of course, that is assuming you didn't have a GPS unit. Dec 6, 2013
beytzim  
Fun route but a couple of gotchas. Like everyone else said, really chossy, so be aware of holds breaking and lots of rock fall.

Pitch 3: the traverse after the eighth bolt to the hidden ninth is a dangerous joke. The 9th bolt is about 10 feet to the right, hidden inside a cove. No way to see it until you get right on top of it. And the traverse is very chossy.

Third rappel: The rappel anchors are set too far into the ledge. This guarantees a stuck rope. Ask me how I know! For hassle free rope retrieval its best to extend the rappel point with your own gear and donate it to Idiopathic! Nov 30, 2013
enkoopa  
The rock is lose but it's still a good route.

You can drive almost to the base especially with 4wd. We stopped way too soon.

The bolts are pretty good. The anchors aren't. A homemade hanger or other inventions. Also agree with the traverse... It needs a bolt to indicate there is more climbing up to the right.

A nice route.. Good mix of climbing. Nice stemming section. If the anchors were better it would be a good route for an intro to multipitch for a solid 5.9 climber. Feb 20, 2013
lou
lou  
not recomended.... rock is brittle, any hold can n did n will give.
the route is bolted as if the rock were granite.. but with the generous spacing of the bolts and the crap rock this route is 5.9r

after the fifthish bolt on the third pitch you cant see the next bolt.. anywhere to be found... the route does not logically go up, but traverses hard right... who would guess.. hmmmm needs a plaque with an arrow ( he he)... would be very hard to rap the route and retrieve your gear after the second pitch... I would climb the first two ,, rap,, and call it a day.... hit the groover, a much better climb.
sayfe got your ropes off the route.. ill email ya...
cheers...
lou Feb 5, 2012
Sayfe
Scottsdale, az
Sayfe   Scottsdale, az
Rope?
Steve Tillery and I climbed it last weekened. Out rope got stuck in the rap and We could not get it.
We are back at the base of the climb today, and the ropes are gone. If you retrieved them, please let us know. Email me: Sayfe@cox.net

Great climb! Feb 5, 2012
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
 
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
 
I thought this was really fun. It does have a crumble factor, but enjoyed it, good route. Jan 16, 2012
matt evans
salt lake city, UT
  5.9- PG13
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
  5.9- PG13
This was a pretty fun route. First two pitches are three star dirty, crumbly climbing. Some of the loose holds add to the mental fun factor. If rock was solid it could be rated a 5.8. Last two pitches are only necessary if you want a summit shot, not too exciting. One to two stars.

I may just be a little bitter though since my phone dropped out of my pocket while rapping the final pitch. Screen on my fancy smart phone is broken and I lost my sd card somewhere -must have popped out (and my camera had tons of awesome climbing pictures on it). Looked for it for an hour but never found it. :( Jan 2, 2012
Joe Cayer
Mesa, Az
  5.9- PG13
Joe Cayer   Mesa, Az
  5.9- PG13
Wow!! This climb keeps you wondering what's going to stay and what's going to crumble away! Very exciting climb. You get some great stances with a lot of fragile moves to get to them. I lead with 3 others following, after the 1st pitch, my second decided to head back to the ground due to being terrified! Three of us continued, hoping that we'd find more stable terrain above, we didn't.
Well bolted, but a bit heady regardless. I think it may go up a grade after some more cleaning! Dec 30, 2011
manuel rangel
Arizona
5.9 PG13
manuel rangel   Arizona
5.9 PG13
Todd Foor and I climbed it yesterday. I think it was great fun and adventurous. I think it needs a few more ascents to clean the flaky stuff off. A bit in the middle of the third pitch the rock deteriorated on the face and I leaned left to the crack, not much more solid, but it gave me pause since I was a little ways above the bolt. The crack needs some cleaning there, I tossed off a bit. Nov 3, 2011
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
I'm writing this from my roll-a-way bed in 4D of Banner Desert Med Center. I've been cooped up for 2 weeks while my wife and son recover from a DVT in the rt leg, and Porter coming 2 months early. Austin and Chris broke me out of the hospital at 0800 in Mesa on Sat. Afyer stopping for gas and breakfast, I was roped up and headed up Idiopathic by 1100 for a much needed break.
These guys styled their way up the Courthouse as we climbed in a party of three. I led each pitch first, then pulled my rope and used it to get in better position for pictures. We were back at our packs by 1545 and driving out by 1600. I got back to the hospital by 1730 to my wife who was happy that I was happy:)
I had a blast guys! Thanks for the belays and I hope you enjoy the pics. Lets get up to the East Verde before the snow:) Oct 31, 2011
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
"owl cove" ??... haha... I like that. Oct 30, 2011
manuel rangel
Arizona
5.9 PG13
manuel rangel   Arizona
5.9 PG13
Good gravy, not another scarefest! I have to get on it soon... Apr 14, 2011
Fletch
Scottsdale
Fletch   Scottsdale
Idiopathic is actually to THE RIGHT of the Groover!!! Do we know whose FA this is? Apr 13, 2011
bio
mesa, az
bio   mesa, az
The second pitch has 12 bolts, and I think Aaron meant extendable runners because I know I wouldn't want to throw any away! It's a fun climb with a great summit. Mar 28, 2011

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