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Routes in Courthouse Rock

Groover, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Idiopathic S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Indie Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: John "Verm" Sherman/ Larry Harpe, January 2015
Page Views: 699 total, 31/month
Shared By: Larry Harpe on Jan 10, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Location

Indie Buttress is the prow in the middle of the east face of Courthouse rock.

Protection

1 set of stoppers, #7-10 hex, 1 set cams to 3", 4" optional
1 60m rope
Many long runners

Description

1st pitch: Start up a 3rd class ramp on the right side of the buttress just past the highest Palo Verdes on the slope. Climb past a fix pin to a 2 bolt anchor(Aromatherapy ledge). 4th class 110'

2nd pitch: Prance up Pussycat Prow past bolts to Hard Boiled ledge. Gear anchor. Pull down not out. 5.5 155'

3rd pitch: Climb up easy ramp. Take care to run rope to not damage baby saguaros. Bushwhack through shrubs and set gear anchor on ledge below obvious crack. (Hillbilly Hilton) the Rap anchors are on the far end of this ledge. 5.0 120'

4th pitch: The Crux. Climb up past "The Bone Hole" to Barely Eagle Ledge. 5.8 95'

5th pitch: The Star stripper aka Demi Moore pitch. This one might get better once it cleans up. Start up left (There is an off route piton to the right) past a few bolts to Torpedo Ledge. A nice place for a beer. 5.5 100'

6th pitch: Climb the What What? pitch to the top of the buttress. 5.3 65'

7th pitch: Ewe Crazy Travese. Travel left past 3 bolts to the saddle.

Follow the Mountaineers route or some other way to the summit. Sign the register on top.

To get down reverse the last pitch. 3 one rope raps will get you back to The Hillbilly Hilton. From there head climbers right to find the rap bolts. Two more raps from there.

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I've done this route a few times. It doesn't need a lot of protection and the bolts are adequately spaced. The scariest part of the ride is the final traverse.

Stop at the last bolt on traverse to belay. You should be able to see each other; if you can't see your partner, you went to far on the traverse. Jan 11, 2016