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Routes in Main Wall

(1) Old School T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(10) Grab Your Balls S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(2) Mosquito S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
(3) Mosquito Variation S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(4) New School S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
(5) Bowling Ball S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
(6) Transfusion S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
(7) Burning Balls S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
(8) Diesel S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
(9) Eclipse S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
50/50 S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimp Fest S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Do You Like Apples S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gas on the Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Revisited S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Tim Anderson 2002
Page Views: 1,046 total · 8/month
Shared By: truello on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

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Access Issue: Private Land Details

Description

Start to the left of the eclipse route/crack. Climb up through a flake system to a rest ledge continue up the thin face to the shuts.

Location

#8 on topo

Protection

3 bolts, double ring anchors.

Photos

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Andrew Garman
  5.12b
Andrew Garman  
  5.12b
Reaching hidden hold around bulge makes this route hard to onsight. Nov 22, 2012
Todd M.
  5.12a/b
Todd M.  
  5.12a/b
Great route, but too short... wish it were longer! (But I guess that's true for most routes on this wall). With the beta I was using, I'd say for me, no harder than 12b. Maybe even 12a? Especially since there is a really good rest separating the opening tough moves from the upper tough moves. I could see how my beta would be more difficult for someone much shorter than me (I'm 5'11"). But there's probably beta that works for shorter folks, I didn't mess around trying to figure something else out though. Regardless, I think this route has some of the best moves on this wall! Nov 9, 2015
Thefryman Fryland
Chicago, IL
  5.12a/b
Thefryman Fryland   Chicago, IL
  5.12a/b
I agree about the rating.. I'm definitely not climbing 5.13a... It's probably closer to 5.12a/b. Though onsighting this would be pretty badass due to the nature of the climb. Definetely give it a go if you're in the area. Jul 29, 2017

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