Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Peter Harding 1946
Page Views: 1,165 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


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Description

A total classic with a wandering line and a BIG feel to it, and tons of exposure.

1) 50ft 5.7. Up the groove, then traverse left along big flakes to a ledge with a huge chimney behind it.

2) 80ft 5.8. There's a big flake left of the chimney (facing the rock) up this, over the top (long sling) and down the other side (insane!!!!!) to a tricky and exposed move onto a ledge (crux). Go around the arete and up the finishing slab with a feeling of real achievement.

Descend to the left and down the steps.

Location

Left edge of Lower Tier, right of the steps, to the right of the HUGE roof.

Protection

Nuts, cams and a double length sling.

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Photos

Chris Owen on pitch 2, past the crux, after a crazy epic! Ahhh a double rope hip belay....
Chris Owen on pitch 2, past the crux, after a c…
 1
Valkyrie Direct
Valkyrie Direct
 0
Gritmeister Nomi heading towards the ledge.
Gritmeister Nomi heading towards the ledge.
 0
25 years later Scott Nomi heads up P1 - photo by Tony Tennessee.
25 years later Scott Nomi heads up P1 - photo b…
 0

5 Comments

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marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
 
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
 
I had the luck to climb this route with Derek Walker in 1993. Coming over from the limited climbing available in Texas, the texture of grit was and is way different than granite.

That said, this little route is a classic. The traverse from p2 belay is a little spooky unless you know there is a very nice hidden hold/stance waiting for you at the end. Sweet and easy to the top! Jun 18, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
Exactly right Marc - done this route a few times over the decades and I always mess up at the bottom of the flake not remembering that little hidden foothold.

Or perhaps I'm scared mindless. Mar 4, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Double ropes are usual for this route - otherwise the second could take a big swing into space on the traverse! Oct 24, 2011
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK
Rob reminds me of last time I was at the Roaches. We look over to the route, to see a team attempting to climb it on a single rope, running both pitches together! The leader had placed copious protection on the first pitch, and was starting the downclimb on the flake, yelling to his belayer for slack (which, needless to say, was not forthcoming!).

I wanted to fetch my popcorn and sit back in a deckchair, but my partner was kinder and offered some friendly advice on how it might be better to pitch it.

If you are climbing on a single, it is a good idea when you get to the top, to go into your anchor on a sling, then drop your end of the rope down to protect your second on the traverse. Dec 9, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
Good advice Nick. That's what I did last time I was visiting - once I got to the top I pulled the rope and dropped the end down for the second to use, and just flicked it around the arete as prgress was made. Jul 15, 2014