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Valkyrie
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Peter Harding 1946 |
Page Views: | 1,081 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
Description
A total classic with a wandering line and a BIG feel to it, and tons of exposure.
1) 50ft 5.7. Up the groove, then traverse left along big flakes to a ledge with a huge chimney behind it.
2) 80ft 5.8. There's a big flake left of the chimney (facing the rock) up this, over the top (long sling) and down the other side (insane!!!!!) to a tricky and exposed move onto a ledge (crux). Go around the arete and up the finishing slab with a feeling of real achievement.
Descend to the left and down the steps.
1) 50ft 5.7. Up the groove, then traverse left along big flakes to a ledge with a huge chimney behind it.
2) 80ft 5.8. There's a big flake left of the chimney (facing the rock) up this, over the top (long sling) and down the other side (insane!!!!!) to a tricky and exposed move onto a ledge (crux). Go around the arete and up the finishing slab with a feeling of real achievement.
Descend to the left and down the steps.
Canyon Lake, TX
That said, this little route is a classic. The traverse from p2 belay is a little spooky unless you know there is a very nice hidden hold/stance waiting for you at the end. Sweet and easy to the top! Jun 18, 2008
Big Bear Lake
Or perhaps I'm scared mindless. Mar 4, 2010
Cheshire, UK
Bristol, UK
I wanted to fetch my popcorn and sit back in a deckchair, but my partner was kinder and offered some friendly advice on how it might be better to pitch it.
If you are climbing on a single, it is a good idea when you get to the top, to go into your anchor on a sling, then drop your end of the rope down to protect your second on the traverse. Dec 9, 2013
Big Bear Lake