Valkyrie

I had the luck to climb this route with Derek Walker in 1993. Coming over from the limited climbing available in Texas, the texture of grit was and is way different than granite.

That said, this little route is a classic. The traverse from p2 belay is a little spooky unless you know there is a very nice hidden hold/stance waiting for you at the end. Sweet and easy to the top! Jun 18, 2008

Exactly right Marc - done this route a few times over the decades and I always mess up at the bottom of the flake not remembering that little hidden foothold.

Or perhaps I'm scared mindless. Mar 4, 2010

Double ropes are usual for this route - otherwise the second could take a big swing into space on the traverse! Oct 24, 2011

Rob reminds me of last time I was at the Roaches. We look over to the route, to see a team attempting to climb it on a single rope, running both pitches together! The leader had placed copious protection on the first pitch, and was starting the downclimb on the flake, yelling to his belayer for slack (which, needless to say, was not forthcoming!).

I wanted to fetch my popcorn and sit back in a deckchair, but my partner was kinder and offered some friendly advice on how it might be better to pitch it.

If you are climbing on a single, it is a good idea when you get to the top, to go into your anchor on a sling, then drop your end of the rope down to protect your second on the traverse. Dec 9, 2013

Good advice Nick. That's what I did last time I was visiting - once I got to the top I pulled the rope and dropped the end down for the second to use, and just flicked it around the arete as prgress was made. Jul 15, 2014