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Routes in Escher World

As Far As Siam S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best Route In Minnesota, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dont Grab the Krabi S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goodbye Salvador S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hello Dali S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Doo S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mekhong Crazy S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Name S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Playground, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Ribbed for her pleasure TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short & Easy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soley Action 1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Todd Skinner & MIke Tupper
Page Views: 5,986 total, 49/month
Shared By: Mike on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

A great route on a pinnacle inside a cave.

Location

Located inside the cave that is on the backside of the Thaiwand. You can approach it from Phra Nang Beach or by going through the cave at the Thaiwand all the way to the other side.

Protection

Bolts. Lots of them.
Definitely the best route on this average wall but what a line it is! A thin start leads to bomber holds moving left towards the beautiful arete. Less polished than the other routes on the face and bone dry after 2 rainy nights in November, none of the slime mentioned earlier but that's probably true during the rainy season. As of November 2017, there are 2 variations as the glue-in bolts diverge to the left and right of the arete for the last 3 bolts. The left is an overhanging compression problem that is more in line with the 5.11c grade in King's guidebook. The right climbs on a vertical face with crimps and pockets for an easy finish in line with the Mountain Project 5.10d/5.11a rating. The anchors for both variations are solid and to the right of the arete. Nov 21, 2017
K Blase
Salt Lake City, UT
K Blase   Salt Lake City, UT
crazy cool route, but covered in slime and super polished. i climbed it in the rainy season, so not sure if it's always like that, but the slime made it much less enjoyable. Jul 15, 2017
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Given it's four star rating, it's not surprising that this route gets a lot of action. I loved the view and the exposure. What I wasn't so much a fan of was the polishing of every single hold. Maybe this is a function of the volume on the route, maybe it's a natural thing, maybe it has something to do with climbing it in the rainy season, but there seems to be a thick film of slime on all the holds, particularly those up high, making this more difficult than it otherwise needed to be. I understand that polishing comes with the territory in Tonsai/Railay but in this case, I felt it substantially took away from the quality of the climb. Certainly a unique and quality climb, but...beware the slime. Aug 30, 2016
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great, long route. I think the crux was getting to the 2nd bolt--potential for both leader and follower to deck. So the 6c rating felt appropriate for the bottom portion, the rest gets easier while still being loads of fun. Great route, highly recommended! The bolts looked good to me-- the slings at the anchor looked like people were going for quantity over quality...but it held... Nov 21, 2014
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Amazing Route! A little spaced out delicate face climbing for the first section, stellar rest half way up and then the outstanding double arete to the top! This bad boy is long, a enduro pitch by Tonsai/Railey standards. Safely bolted, stays cool in the cave all day and is totally not only the "Best Route in Minnesota" but by far one of the best routes in the Tonsai/Railey area! Worth the trek from Tonsai beach. A MUST DO!!! Mar 26, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
Onsight, so must be soft. This route is equipped with 316 stainless steel and Hilte 500 glue (the good kind). Although not ideal, the bolts looked far better than routes with white glue. But I guess it's not about what you can see... Feb 14, 2014
jasoncm  
No Titanium on this route. Just Fixe stainless rings that look like they have seen better days. Really cool route though, deserves re-bolting. Easy for the grade. May 8, 2013
RollGlobal
Oakland, CA
RollGlobal   Oakland, CA
Much of Escher wall is still in a state of disrepair when it comes to fixed pro. The Best Route in Minnesota, however, has been rebolted with titanium and red glue (currently considered the best pro in Krabi). I just climbed it yesterday. Such a great climb. Mar 8, 2010
Actually this is a Skinner route. Brady's is next door: the Half-Pipe Dream. Current status of fixed pro is unknown to me. Nov 15, 2007