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Routes in Upper Tier

Crack Right of Quality Control T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dave And Crissa's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forgotten Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quality Control Be Damned S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ben Hatcher
Page Views: 445 total · 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Location

2nd crack right of Quality Control... (after a low angle corner/chimney with the loose rock, wiseguy!). Start just left of the big block.

Description

Forgotten Crack is a forgettable splitter hand/fist crack in the Upper Gallows Edge region. This climb is rated with lots of quality stars in both the online Gallows Edge guide and Jemez Rock, but taller and more sustained cracks can be found at the nearby ONP or BONP cliffs in my opinion..

Start by stemming behind a block to the right, then follow splitter finger/hand crack up slab down low, then through a splitter hand crack crux up high, keeping an eye out for good footholds.

Soft for a 5.9 in White Rock, if you know how to hand jam.

Protection

Nuts + 1 set cams up to 3", don't need real little ones. Gotta build your own anchor at the top (static rope is helpful if you want to reach to a tree a ways back from the edge)

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