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Routes in The 100-yard Wall
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Doil, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fledgling T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nutcracker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Terre Lashier, Steve Swanke, January 1st, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 3,921 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Darren Knezek on Nov 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is a crack behind a triangular-shaped flake/tower. It begins with a wide section down low and gets a little thinner the higher you go, there's quite a few holds on the wall and the flake that make the upward movement much easier. It gets wide again at the top, but with a little less quality rock on the flake. Clip a set of drilled angle anchors and stand on top of the flake and soak up the view of Arches! You can rap back down the flake, but make sure and give your rope a good tug to not get caught in the crack. (People have rapped over the front of the flake, but it puts rope grooves in the flake.)Desert Rock I gives a good description of the climb except where it says to downclimb the route. It has anchors and is easy to rap
Location
If you're looking at The 100-yard Wall, this route is on the next level up with The Doil. The Doil looks like a KFC drumstick standing on it's end and to the left about 50 yards are three small flake/towers leaning against the wall. Fledgling is the middle tower and is on the left side of the flake. No one can see you climbing it from the road until you're at the top.
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