Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,919 total · 49/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 3, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends. It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick. Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.


Starts where Nutcrack ends; on the left side of the 100-yard wall.


standard desert rack


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;..here's one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size. May 3, 2007
Darren Knezek
Darren Knezek  
I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek. Nov 3, 2007
When I climbed the route (Oct. 2008), the chockstone anchor was still there, but the main anchor were two drilled angles, which appeared and felt much more solid than the old anchor. Nov 1, 2008
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
I agree with you Darren, this climb is almost classic for a desert 5.8. Not sure which I enjoyed more: the killer handcrack or climbing the handcrack into the chimney.

Great pro the whole way. Jun 12, 2011
Sam A.
San Antonio, TX
Sam A.   San Antonio, TX
Can you do this climb with passive pro, or are cams needed? Jul 23, 2014
This was my favorite 5.8 crack in Moab!! Great gear placement and a solid line. I did this after doing Nutcracker below and it was about 2 stars better. Nutcracker was awkward and sandy. Plus, me and my girl did this on a weekend and NO ONE was around! I think cuz I didn't see it in any guidebook.
May 11, 2015