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Routes in The 100-yard Wall

Doil, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fledgling T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nutcracker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Steve Swanke and Tom Wesson 1982
Page Views: 2,545 total · 18/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 2, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This crack climb is one of Arche's easiest climbs and a quick tick. It has a short approach, a walk off, and is easy to find, and has good protection. It's not the greatest climb on the planet, but it's worth a spin. Combine it with the Doil (which starts where Nutcracker finishes), and you get another climb to experience.


It's the straight crack on the right side of the cliff... I even believe you could top rope this, if you aren't into leading. Walk off to the right.


One set of cams will probably do the trick.


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
The name of this climb comes from, I believe, a testicle smashing fall that happened to Steve Swanke. I climbed this climb the same year of the F A, back in 1982, at Steve's suggestion, with Doug Smith. Steve, at the time, was 2nd in command ranger at Arches, and later became head Tool..(er, I mean , Ranger...sir) of Canyonlands. Steve is a good fellow, and I had a number of opportunities to climb with Steve back in the early 1980's. He was always very kind to our large Spring Break group...and we yearly trashed his place with mud, dogs, people, scrounging showers, sorting dirty gear, sleeping on his floor, cooking in his kitchen;....the usual abuse of unruly "guests."...Steve in a big lad;....probably size 14 shoe;....and a gentle giant;...he was the ranger first contacted by the guy (Aaron Ralston?) who hacked off his limb to save his life;...I think Steve took him to the hospital;....he was interviewed on the news , anyways, about the incident. There aren't too many "easy" climbs on sandstone, ...this is one of them. May 3, 2007
Darren Knezek
Darren Knezek  
As per Todd's suggestion I did this one first and then the other two on the higher ledge. I would take along a 5" cam for the end. This climbs quite differently than the other two above and the jams are a little more flared and a little more sandy and the feet a little more skittery, making the climb quite a bit harder. Felt more like a 5.8+ to me. :) Thanks for the recommendation Todd! Nov 3, 2007
Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
To toprope the route you can anchor to a tree above the lip but its not that close to the edge and you'd need a very long piece of webbing to keep the rope from scraping over a lot of sandstone. We ended up belaying from the top using the rope to extend the anchor. Nov 8, 2010
This route is meh. It's sandy and awkward. Sometimes feels harder than 5.8 because of the awkwardness. I gave it a 5.8+ because of this. Standard desert rack. What does that mean?! Pretty much a rack of cams with extras in the .75 - 2 Camalots. Or bring some Tri-cams if you don't have doubles. Or skip this route and hike above it to The Doil. A GREAT GREAT LINE!! May 11, 2015

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